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Summer will be upon us soon! Make sure you check the Meets subforum to see if there's a get-together near you!

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
 on: January 14, 2019, 11:46:19 AM 
Started by NiteLord - Last post by chrispoe
There is no Ignition fuse, only an injection fuse in the engine compartment fuse block and it's not required to get the ignition system working.  The connector that Rocketman is referring to near the engine fuse block is C135, it has 3 wires. Yellow/blue for the tach signal to the instrument gauge, black/white supplies 12V to the ignition coil directly from the ignition switch, and a blue wire the feeds 12V from the Injection fuse to the main relay on the engine harness.

Seeing that you have 12V on the Black/white wire at the ignition coil, it doesn't look like connector C135 is the issue. You also said you have 12V on the black/white wire at the distributor too which means the ignition system should be powered up.

The next thing I would do is unplug the ignition coil and do an OHM reading across the primary winding, it should read around 2-3 ohms or less. After that, I would check for continuity of the yellow/blue wire between the distributor, ignition coil, and connector C135.

 on: January 12, 2019, 10:21:02 PM 
Started by greywolf27030 - Last post by greywolf27030
Cool, thanks.

Jack Byrd

 on: January 12, 2019, 07:32:16 PM 
Started by NiteLord - Last post by NiteLord
I'll give that a go tomorrow..

 on: January 12, 2019, 07:08:48 PM 
Started by NiteLord - Last post by chukT
Sounds like something has a draw or bad contact in the ignition circuit. I wonder what the voltage on the ign fuse would read with the distributer unplugged and the key on.

I'm guessing you have a corroded contact somewhere in the harness for the ignition circuit.

 on: January 12, 2019, 05:56:23 PM 
Started by blueamber - Last post by Trackerrrr
Here's one on eBay that is available:

 on: January 12, 2019, 05:54:30 PM 
Started by blueamber - Last post by Trackerrrr
That looks to be a regular relay with a fancy connector. I'm with Rocketman on this, pull the cover off and see if the contacts can be cleaned up. I'll bet that it's a standard type relay and you could substitute another for it and swap over the wiring connector.

 on: January 12, 2019, 02:31:56 PM 
Started by NiteLord - Last post by NiteLord
No Tach bounce when cranking...cleaned ground wires plus added two additional grounds to block and trans.....check main fuse box under hood and cleaned all the wiring, getting 12v at all the fuses except Ign. fuse getting 10.6v with key on....checked igniter with key on getting 12.6v, getting 10.6 while cranking...Coil is at 12.6v with key on, 10.6v while cranking...

 on: January 12, 2019, 01:10:27 PM 
Started by blueamber - Last post by blueamber
Ha, yeah that ad for new ones ended in 2015... just frustrating to try long distance help when in 5 minutes hands on I could probably tell what the car needed...

 on: January 12, 2019, 01:09:49 AM 
Started by greywolf27030 - Last post by Rocketman
I'm guessing someone just filled it to the top? That is likely why it is leaking

There's a little diagram on the trans case next to the gear, showing the speedo gear as a dipstick.
Most autoparts stores have a big 'ol suction syringe, I think I got mine for $20, would allow you to pull out exactly the right amount of fluid

 on: January 12, 2019, 01:06:20 AM 
Started by blueamber - Last post by Rocketman
$440 on MCP??? That's some next level shit there.

$44 on eBay, brand new.

Does not look like it's used by any other cars.

Have they bench tested it with a multimeter? Given the scarcity it's worth diagnosing for sure
Should be able to pop the metal cover off and service the bits inside, not too much can go wrong with them other than maybe a dirty contact

I may have one left in my horde if all else fails

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