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 on: November 05, 2018, 07:21:25 AM 
Started by JBone - Last post by disasterdave
Problem still there. Replaced the cam position sensor. No change.
As far as I can determine the only rpm sensor on a natural is the cam sensor. the camshaft position sensor sits between the camshaft housing and the distributer running on the same shaft.

So the ECU only has this input to work on TDC and RPM.

The rpm cutout is a very consistent RPM....I can't detect any variation over the many weeks...maybe months...that this comes and goes as feels like it.

Changed the airflow sensor box which has several sensors thinking that perhaps at a certain airflow the sensor resistor was change with a whole new box :-(

That's the latest updates.....


 on: November 04, 2018, 06:15:59 AM 
Started by JBone - Last post by oz-fire
Did you finally fix your problem , if so how. I am having a similar issue

 on: November 03, 2018, 01:42:34 PM 
Started by oakslee - Last post by greywolf27030
Another North Carolina member, welcome and good luck getting her running.

Jack Byrd

 on: November 03, 2018, 12:13:52 AM 
Started by bluexr7 - Last post by Rocketman
You can switch to the newer 70A Mistubishi alternator, it uses a different lower mounting bolt and a different plug. You can grab these bits from the junkyard.
It looks like you might be able to grab the plug from Rockauto brand new, too.

 on: November 03, 2018, 12:08:08 AM 
Started by oakslee - Last post by Rocketman
Simple test: When you crank the engine, does the tach needle bounce?

If no, it's likely a common ignitor issue.
Without a tach signal, the spark plugs can't fire, and the ECU won't chooch the injectors.

If yes, there's some more troubleshooting you'll need to do

 on: November 02, 2018, 12:58:30 AM 
Started by oakslee - Last post by Trackerrrr
Hey John, welcome. You don't check voltage at the plugs, you check for a strong blue spark at their gaps when cranking the car. The plug voltages are way higher than the battery but they only occur for milliseconds. You need five things for car to run: fuel, air, spark at the correct time, good compression, and correct valve timing. Check the easy stuff first.

1. Is there gas in the car?

You should be able to check this on your own.

2. Is fuel filter clogged or good?

Pull it off and try to blow through the inlet. If you can't or it's very hard to blow through, replace it.

3. Is the fuel pump delivering fuel to the injectors and at the right pressure?

On the firewall there's a fuel pump test connector on the passenger side. It's two prong and yellow in color, right next to a large green connector. If you jumper the yellow connector terminals and turn the key on (but not to start), the fuel pump should run constantly (it's under the back seat on driver side) and you should be able to hear it run. You can attach a fuel high pressure gauge to the fuel filter hose and check the pressure that way. WARNING: Do NOT run the pump with the fuel line open!!! You will get a geyser of gas spraying everywhere if the pump works good!!! Pull the jumper off the connector when done.

NOTE: The fuel pump does not run normally until the key is turned to start and the air flow meter starts to move from the air moving into the engine, hence the test connector for key on engine off testing...

4. Are the injectors working?

When you crank the engine, listen for them clicking. A stethoscope or long screwdriver pressed against each injector will help you hear this.

5. Is the air filter clean?


6. Is there spark at the plugs?

Pull them out, lay them on the valve cover, and crank the engine. You should see a strong blue spark at each gap. The metal shell of the plug must be grounded against the valve cover for this to work. No spark means distributor isn't working right or no power to it, or the coil may be bad (check connector at coil too for looseness).

7. Is ignition timing correct?

You'll need to check this with a timing light.

8. Are all the cylinders showing good compression and within 10% of each other?

When plugs are out check compression.

9. Is timing belt in good condition and all valve timing marks aligned?

You can pull the top part of the timing cover off to check the cam gear marks and crankshaft pulley for alignment. has all the shop manual info. If you can't get to the site I can send you the applicable PDF files.

This is just a basic rundown of stuff to check. You may just have a loose connection or your ECU may be fried from reversing the battery cables. You just have to start troubleshooting things methodically and eliminate the stuff that works.

 on: November 01, 2018, 07:06:59 PM 
Started by Zackcr116 - Last post by blueamber
Yeah, I got an ECU that works 99.99% of the time, just stops working sometimes, then starts working.  It's currently a wall ornament in the shop...

 on: November 01, 2018, 06:37:40 PM 
Started by oakslee - Last post by oakslee
Hi, this is actually my first post, Iím John! Iíve got a 91 N/A with about 80k miles. I got the car back in August from my grandfather who had garaged it after something went wrong with it and it had stopped running right  a couple years back. We took it to a mechanic and got it fixed, if Iím remembering correctly it had something to do with the master brake cylinder. Anyways, the car was working for a couple weeks and itís my first manual transmission car so I was having my dad teach me whenever we both had the time. The car stopped running which was because the alternator belt was too loose, so we tightened that up after a long while of sitting but the battery had been drained! So then we ended up with more problems because the battery cables didnít have any colors on them so after charging and reconnecting them, we crossed the wrong cables. Luckily the only thing I had to fix was replacing the main fuse in the engine bay, but now thatís done and over with the car will crank but not start. We checked the voltage in the spark plugs and they were only reading about 0.2 volts. At this point Iím lost because Iím not too savvy with cars yet but Iím learning as I go. Is this caused because of the distributor possibly? If so, will I have to replace the whole thing or a specific part of it? Is it even the distributor? Sorry for the long read! Thanks, John

 on: November 01, 2018, 12:30:31 PM 
Started by Rocketman - Last post by Skunkwrkz
Even further back than that, I was on the MX6 yahoo group before There was a guy who was a tuner in Orlando that first told me about the VJ11/Tbird. Supposedly, this hybrid is the same trim and specs as the Ferrari F40 right side IHI turbo. Just thought that was a cool thing to note that some may not be aware of.

 on: November 01, 2018, 09:31:33 AM 
Started by bluexr7 - Last post by Gaz
Seems like getting a good reman for the 85 amp unit. I am on my third with O'Reilly. Although, the first time it failed, the local cantankerous rebuilder in St. Paul said he couldn't get proper windings for it, or whatever the hell part he said he couldn't get. Might be indicative of a sourcing issue with bigger remanufacturing plants, which would explain the regulator failing in mine repeatedly.

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