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 31 
 on: January 14, 2019, 04:46:55 PM 
Started by chukT - Last post by chukT
Just picked up another Capri, after not having one for a few years. 91 N/A 5 spd. Same as my last one.......sorta. Here's where the question pops up.

My last car was a non runner with an auto when I bought it. I fixed the crank snout to make it run, then put 30,000 or so more miles on it. I bought a junked 92 N/A car with a 5spd and a torn down motor to get parts to convert mine to a stick.

A forum member (here or yahoo, I don't remember) from Long Island was offering a pile of Capri parts for free, I offered to come get them, and got a small trailer full of parts from him, including a low mileage 1.6 with attached 5spd, spare knuckles and axles, top and some body parts.

I tore my runner apart and installed the low mileage motor and manual trans. I used the pedal and hydraulic clutch master n slave, and shifter from the 92 I had at home. I had to use axles from the pile of free parts, the 5spd had equal-length shafts.

My 91 that I just bought, and another parts car that I just pulled some stuff from have unequal length shafts.......hmmmmm.

I start reading up on these transmissions, it looks like the XR2 cars have equal shafts, but a cable clutch........hmmmmm.

I found some pictures online, of the jack shaft that the turbo cars used, and that looks to be the same setup that I put in my original car, but my transmission was a hydraulic clutch.

What transmission was in that pile of parts that I got from Long Island?


 32 
 on: January 14, 2019, 01:18:43 PM 
Started by David Young - Last post by David Young
I have a 1992 XR2 that I am looking to sell.
This capri has the grey leather interior, and is mostly stock.
It does have a "rocket chip" installed, along with a manual boost controller that is set for 10 lbs.
I purchased it used, with 113K mile on it in May 2007.
Right now it has 182K on it and is in the garage for the winter.
I do not drive it in the winter...and I have put less than 5K miles on it per year for the last 5-6 years.
I replaced the clutch and rebuilt the turbo 10K miles ago.
It has a black cloth top; both the 15" triad wheels and a set of 14"-5 spoke wheels.
I have the hard top, caddy, and tools that go with it.
I had it repainted a few years ago with a base coat clear coat finish.
The car is "chevy victory red".  The hard top and the rear spoiler are both painted black.
I have many extra parts that go along with it.
Sorry this is the only way I could figure out how to post the pictures.

I am asking $2,500 for everything that I have that is Capri related.
If you would like more information, you can email me at the.taxman@comcast.net; or text/call me at 724-344-7550.
I work 8am-4pm EST.  I can text during that time; but can't always answer the phone.  If you call during that time please leave me a message and a time when it is good for me to call you.

https://i.ibb.co/dG2sqjQ/Capri3.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/C5y4D6C/Capri1.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/4ZwpXXx/Capri2.jpg

 33 
 on: January 14, 2019, 11:46:19 AM 
Started by NiteLord - Last post by chrispoe
There is no Ignition fuse, only an injection fuse in the engine compartment fuse block and it's not required to get the ignition system working.  The connector that Rocketman is referring to near the engine fuse block is C135, it has 3 wires. Yellow/blue for the tach signal to the instrument gauge, black/white supplies 12V to the ignition coil directly from the ignition switch, and a blue wire the feeds 12V from the Injection fuse to the main relay on the engine harness.

Seeing that you have 12V on the Black/white wire at the ignition coil, it doesn't look like connector C135 is the issue. You also said you have 12V on the black/white wire at the distributor too which means the ignition system should be powered up.


The next thing I would do is unplug the ignition coil and do an OHM reading across the primary winding, it should read around 2-3 ohms or less. After that, I would check for continuity of the yellow/blue wire between the distributor, ignition coil, and connector C135.

 34 
 on: January 12, 2019, 10:21:02 PM 
Started by greywolf27030 - Last post by greywolf27030
Cool, thanks.

Jack Byrd

 35 
 on: January 12, 2019, 07:32:16 PM 
Started by NiteLord - Last post by NiteLord
I'll give that a go tomorrow..

 36 
 on: January 12, 2019, 07:08:48 PM 
Started by NiteLord - Last post by chukT
Sounds like something has a draw or bad contact in the ignition circuit. I wonder what the voltage on the ign fuse would read with the distributer unplugged and the key on.

I'm guessing you have a corroded contact somewhere in the harness for the ignition circuit.

 37 
 on: January 12, 2019, 05:56:23 PM 
Started by blueamber - Last post by Trackerrrr
Here's one on eBay that is available:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1993-MERCURY-CAPRI-1-6L-MAIN-ENGINE-RELAY-WIRE-HARNESS-MODULE-UNIT-OEM/223283225990?hash=item33fcb7a586:g:Zr0AAOSwjBhcEqrs:rk:20:pf:0

 38 
 on: January 12, 2019, 05:54:30 PM 
Started by blueamber - Last post by Trackerrrr
That looks to be a regular relay with a fancy connector. I'm with Rocketman on this, pull the cover off and see if the contacts can be cleaned up. I'll bet that it's a standard type relay and you could substitute another for it and swap over the wiring connector.

 39 
 on: January 12, 2019, 02:31:56 PM 
Started by NiteLord - Last post by NiteLord
No Tach bounce when cranking...cleaned ground wires plus added two additional grounds to block and trans.....check main fuse box under hood and cleaned all the wiring, getting 12v at all the fuses except Ign. fuse getting 10.6v with key on....checked igniter with key on getting 12.6v, getting 10.6 while cranking...Coil is at 12.6v with key on, 10.6v while cranking...

 40 
 on: January 12, 2019, 01:10:27 PM 
Started by blueamber - Last post by blueamber
Ha, yeah that ad for new ones ended in 2015... just frustrating to try long distance help when in 5 minutes hands on I could probably tell what the car needed...

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