TeamCapri

Tech, Repairs, Upgrades => Brakes/Suspension/Tires/Wheels => Topic started by: Gaz on February 16, 2017, 08:36:49 PM

Title: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Gaz on February 16, 2017, 08:36:49 PM
Who's built it, who's bought it?
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on February 17, 2017, 05:43:12 AM
I think im the only one here who has done any major bracing.

The braces I own are: Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar, Ultra Racing Lower Arm Bar, Rocketmans Front Strut Bar, and Ultra Racing 26mm Rear Sway Bar.

Ultra Racing makes a few others but I havent picked them up yet.

You have to cut abit of the carpit out to put the rear strut bar on.

Just search Ultra Racing BF 323 on ebay.
I havent installed the lower arm bar yet currently Im not sure if it will fit, it looks like its a inch to short.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: greywolf27030 on February 17, 2017, 10:12:38 AM
We need to talk about this tomorrow.

Jack Byrd
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 01, 2017, 05:55:25 PM
The braces I own are: Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar

You have to cut abit of the carpit out to put the rear strut bar on.

Do you have any pics of this bar installed?  Other than trimming the carpet, how difficult was the installation otherwise?  Any special tools or hardware needed?
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 01, 2017, 06:18:44 PM
I dont currently have pictures of it on my car. My cars trunk is currently full, so taking pictures would be hard. However I do have pictures of a friends car who recommended the mod to me. Ill post them when I get home.

Installation:
1. Pull Carpet up to access strut, depending on your car you might need to remove the trunk top and gass struts. If you get the adjustable rear bar it should prevent the removal of the trunk for instellation, but I chose the solid one peice for better grip.

2. Remove the four strut bolts its a size 12 or something I dont recall

3. Install brace and trim the carpet as needed.

Benefits: Increases grip in corners immensly, also It helped stopped rattling in my car. The car feels much more  planted, and doesnt want to swing out as much.

One thing to note Ultra Racing is a Malasian company so its going to take atleast a week to get to you.

Difficulty out of 10: 4(Ability to use a socket and torque wrench is needed)
If you have the ability to install the front strut brace then you should be able install the rear instructions are pretty much the same.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 01, 2017, 10:02:18 PM
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah28/michael_hall14/15380701_10207580023209033_5093426841328087545_n_zpsi794bza0.jpg)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah28/michael_hall14/15442193_10207580023249034_300081452014267376_n_zpsu1asmfpa.jpg)
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 01, 2017, 10:34:07 PM
Perfect!  At least I know now where to look for the mounting points. 

I'm a firm believer in the added benefits of a rear strut tower bar.  I had a 2004 Dodge Neon SRT-4, had a custom one-piece rear STB made at a metal fabrication shop, and combined with the front STB and Eibach springs, that car had VERY little body roll, and kept all four corners planted on the road.  Also installed a front and rear STB on a Merkur XR4Ti I used to have, with similar results.  For most drivers, spending the money on a rear STB, as opposed to some other kind of chassis bracing, is a good investment. 

I'm also going to look and see if it would be possible to make one for a Subaru SVX I just picked up a couple of weeks ago.  Front STB is on order, along with lowering springs, drilled/slotted rotors, pads, s/s brake lines, etc., so I'll have some time to explore that option.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 01, 2017, 10:43:08 PM
Glad I could help! Those sound like a bunch of really cool cars, ive always wanted a XR4ti, and a SVX but low numbers and hard to find parts have always stopped me from picking one up.
Where did you get the drilled and slotted rotors from, I cant seem to find any for the Galant brake upgrade?

Ultra Racings braces are predominatly for the rear, I feel like if you combimed them all it would be very well worth it. I would buy the rest but since Ill be AWD converting my car I would end up having to sell them off eventually.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Rocketman on March 02, 2017, 01:00:12 AM
Do you feel any benefit of the RSTB?
I've never bothered with it, as the Capri has a beefy brace to support the trunk that is already tied to the rear strut towers.

Front bar, yes, makes a huge difference - the towers are floating out there in the engine bay.

Don't stress too much on drilled/slotted Galant rotors. Stock rotors perform fantastic. D/S cause long-term integrity issues on a street driven car. (they like to crack, starting from the drilled sections outward) Most folks don't run the aggressive pads needed for D/S to be relevant (race pads that off-gas a lot, and need somewhere for the gasses to go)
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 02, 2017, 01:19:16 AM
I think its a worthwhile mods. Its fairly cheap, and in my opinion was worth it. To me the ass end of the Capri could use stiffening. I noticed before installing the RSTB that at high speeds the rear would wobbile and cause alot of noise, ever since ive installed brace its gone away. One thing I have to say is it has saved my ass a few times, once when I took a corner going way faster then I should. Normally on that corner id get lift in the back in but with the brace installed it kept me planted, and helped me stay out of a ditch.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 02, 2017, 09:58:53 PM
Just search Ultra Racing BF 323 on ebay.

I found the item on eBay:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/181861816249?ul_noapp=true

I emailed the seller, asking to confirm that this bar would work on a 1994 Mercury Capri, and he toed the party line and said it'll only fit a Mazda 323, which I know is very similar to the Capri.  So if this is the bar that you fitted to your Capri, let me know, and I'll probably go ahead and buy it. 
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 02, 2017, 10:18:22 PM
That is indeed the bar I purchased.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: DarkAngel on March 03, 2017, 05:27:00 AM
I'm curious if the rear strut bar from the Mazda 323 88-89 fits on the Capri ??
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 03, 2017, 09:26:45 AM
No thats the BG 323 the suspension is completely different.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: DarkAngel on March 03, 2017, 01:24:44 PM
So what is the width difference between the back struts for the BG and the Capri

Or better yet, what fits / works for the Capri for rear strut bracing ?
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 03, 2017, 01:46:39 PM
Any of the rear BF braces they sell other then the ones that connect thw hatch will work.  The rear struts have a different patern and ars farther apart in a BG.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 03, 2017, 06:19:11 PM
So what is the width difference between the back struts for the BG and the Capri

Or better yet, what fits / works for the Capri for rear strut bracing ?

This is the rear STB you need:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/181861816249?ul_noapp=true 

Ultra Racing from Malaysia, rear STB for a Mazda 323 BF 2wd '86
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 03, 2017, 06:27:06 PM
Any of the rear BF braces they sell other then the ones that connect thw hatch will work.  The rear struts have a different patern and ars farther apart in a BG.

Is this another one of the braces you've got installed? 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAZDA-323-BF-1986-ULTRA-RACING-REAR-LOWER-STRUT-BAR-2-POINTS-1-PC-UR-RL2-808-/180752777021?vxp=mtr&hash=item2a15b47f3d 

If so, where does this rear lower strut bar mount?

I used to have a Saturn Sky, and had a chassis brace up front, tunnel brace, and a rear lower brace of some kind.  Really tightened up how the car handled.  This rear lower strut bar looks pretty to install, depending on where it goes... 

Thanks
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 03, 2017, 06:36:56 PM
I have the front lower bar, I currently havent had the time to install it. It seems like it wont fit but im not sure. It seems as though the front Suspension is a slight bit different then the 323, due to our slighty different steering rack placement.

That bar you linked should fit, I have a picture of one installed on a 323, and the rear end for our cars looks exactly the aame as the 2wd 323. I would explain where it goes but I lack the proper terms.

Update: Link with pic http://m.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Racing-Mazda-323-BF-2WD-86-Rear-Lower-Bar-Rear-Member-Brace-8ca-/311432156327?hash=item4882cd94a7%3Ag%3AM~oAAOSwPcVV3IAM&_trkparms=pageci%253Ad01100fb-006d-11e7-949c-74dbd18007fb%257Cparentrq%253A969fa7cb15a0a2abd3fe74b7ffff8598%257Ciid%253A12
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Btown on March 03, 2017, 09:16:53 PM
Hi guys,
That's my car with the rear strut bar fitted. I compared with identical car and it just feels stiffer at the back, best mod for the price. You just need to modify the boot struts by adding a small 40mm extension.
Interested in the lower one too now :-)

Link to a Boot Gas strut mod
https://www.facebook.com/bernard.town/videos/10208214453189386/
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Btown on March 03, 2017, 09:50:34 PM
I think im the only one here who has done any major bracing.

The braces I own are: Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar, Ultra Racing Lower Arm Bar, Rocketmans Front Strut Bar, and Ultra Racing 26mm Rear Sway Bar.

Ultra Racing makes a few others but I havent picked them up yet.

You have to cut abit of the carpit out to put the rear strut bar on.

Just search Ultra Racing BF 323 on ebay.
I havent installed the lower arm bar yet currently Im not sure if it will fit, it looks like its a inch to short.
So have you fitted the rear lower? that does look Like it will fit nicely. Also the Aussie Clubsprint has a 18mm rear and 29mm front lower swaybar. That 26mm rear sounds huge.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 03, 2017, 10:21:14 PM
I have not fitted the rear lower, I was contemplating picking it up but I never did due to the AWD swap. If I was keeping the car FWD for anywhere longer then a year I would of bought it. As it looks right now im withing 6months of starting to the swap, I first need to get engine, and transmissions rebuilt/bought.

Just checked, its actually a 19mm bar sorry its beem awhile sense I looked at the page. Wish I could find a aftermarket front sway bar.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Rocketman on March 03, 2017, 10:46:46 PM
So what is the width difference between the back struts for the BG and the Capri

Or better yet, what fits / works for the Capri for rear strut bracing ?

BG is a completely different chassis. We share chassis with the BF chassis 323

The rear BG knuckles are more like front knuckles, with just the mounting ear & two bolts. The BF strut runs all the way down behind the knuckle and has the trailing arm mount on it
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 05, 2017, 01:04:05 PM
I have not fitted the rear lower, I was contemplating picking it up but I never did due to the AWD swap. If I was keeping the car FWD for anywhere longer then a year I would of bought it. As it looks right now im withing 6months of starting to the swap, I first need to get engine, and transmissions rebuilt/bought.

Just checked, its actually a 19mm bar sorry its beem awhile sense I looked at the page. Wish I could find a aftermarket front sway bar.

Ok, I saw on their site that they have a front AND rear two-point solid lower strut bar, so you must've installed the front, yes?  Do these braces come with installation instructions?  Depending on how the install of their rear upper STB goes, I might get their front and rear lower strut bars.  I figure adding these two lower strut braces, in addition to having the two upper strut braces, can only benefit the ride and handling qualities in a Capri. 
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 05, 2017, 01:36:50 PM
Thats the main problem im having. These braces come with zero instructions. When I installed the RSTB, I went off the pictures BTown sent me. As for the front brace, I have no clue how to install it. Theres zero pictures on their website of it installed on a 323. When I contacted them they said it goes on the from LCAs, but when I tried to fit it, it was a inch too small. Once im done moving and I have the time ill try it again, because I only spent like 10minutes messing with it. One thing I had a issue with was getting the splash pan off because I was missing the socket, but now I have the sockets required, so getting to the LCAs should be much easier now.

Ill take a picture of the front brace, as its just in my garage. It looks exactly like the rear lower strut brace, but its too big to fit in the rear.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 05, 2017, 03:26:15 PM
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah28/michael_hall14/IMG_20170305_135907_zpswfau6uvj.jpg)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah28/michael_hall14/IMG_20170305_135849_zpswhxazedz.jpg)
(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah28/michael_hall14/IMG_20170305_135859_zps6l8ggn1i.jpg)
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Rocketman on March 05, 2017, 03:43:15 PM
That kind of brace installs to the front LCA bolts. You remove* them, put the bolt thru the cup, and then put the bolt back where it came.
FWIW, this style of bracing already exists on the Capri, in the form of two small struts/rods that bolt to the engine subframe. This piece will be stiffer, but may reduce your ground clearance.

*The LCA bolts are a colossal pain in the ass to remove. They're retained by a square nut hidden up inside the frame. The nut is held in place by a flimsy piece of sheet metal. Most rust a bit, and when you turn the bolt, it spins the nut, and bends the sheet metal piece out of the way, permitting it to just spin endlessly. They were designed only to be assembled at the factory, not with service in mind.

I have stuck my welder in there to put a piece of snot on the nut to keep it from spinning, this has had mediocre results.
I have seen capris where the frame has been cut back/peeled back to access the bolts. This allows you to jam something in there to pin in between the wall and the nut. I have done this, and re-welded the pieces back into place. This is a much more invasive, but reliable method.

It will be worth your time to replace the LCA bushings with urethane ones while you're in there. There is a thread here with part #s.
You don't want to do this job twice.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 05, 2017, 04:12:56 PM
Would it be a waste of my time to install it considering Ill be going to AWD? What I mean is the front suspension able to be left pretty much stock during the conversion, or will I have to do a full swap from the GTX parts car.
Because in my opinion spending all that time just to have to rip it out would be a waste.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Rocketman on March 05, 2017, 05:48:23 PM
You will use a stock front suspension. The engine subframe needs to be hacked up & re-enforced to clear the AWD transmission, other than that the LCAs/knuckles/struts/steering rack all remain the same.

Clearance to the steering rack was very tight.
I made a custom rear transmission mount and poured a hard durometer urethane into it, to keep it from moving much and creating an issue. (no stock parts would have worked)

That said, you will probably have to dismantle the whole front of the car when doing the conversion. My mind is foggy on this detail, but I think I had the drivetrain in & out over 40 times checking fitment, modifying, and fabricating parts before it was settled into place for good. (it was in & out a good bit anyway, sometimes just raising it up out of the engine bay, others completely removing it & setting it back on the ground)
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 13, 2017, 07:23:41 PM
Rec'd a package from Ultra Racing today, but it was totally screwed up.  I ordered a two-point solid rear upper STB, and what I rec'd was a front lower strut bar, exactly like the one Snake posted.  WTF, over?!  Sent them a message thru eBay, let's see how they respond... 
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: greywolf27030 on March 13, 2017, 07:39:14 PM
Response if good for all to know.

Jack Byrd
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 13, 2017, 08:28:31 PM
Wow thats rediculous. I hope everything turns out well with it.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 13, 2017, 10:46:20 PM
They're on their toes!  They're confirming what I ordered, sent me two different messages thru eBay with two different rear STBs, one is adjustable, the other is solid (this is what I ordered).  I replied back to the message that had the correct rear STB.  That's all the message traffic so far, but I'll give them kudos for prompt customer service. 
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 14, 2017, 04:07:13 PM
So after trading several emails last night, we decided that I'll keep this front lower strut bar, and they'll send me a rear upper STB for $119, including shipping.  So I figured what the heck, I'm game.  Once I get the rear STB, that should be fairly easy to install, certainly less than an hour.  After that's done, I'll crawl under the front and see how this thing bolts up...

Even though they got my original order wrong, I can't fault their attempts to make things right.  Would be nice if companies here in the States had the same level of customer service as a company as far away as this one in Malaysia!
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 14, 2017, 05:16:20 PM
Glad they made it right! Yea I do agree their customer service is amazing.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 16, 2017, 06:38:38 PM
Since I was so impressed with their customer service, and the front lower strut bar looked like a well-made piece, I also ordered the rear lower strut bar.  So I've got the lower front strut bar on hand, and the rear upper and rear lower strut bars are on their way.  Hopefully, it won't take but maybe an hour or two for installation, and I'm expecting some noticeable differences in how the car handles.  Hopefully, it won't be too stiff, since it's a convertible, so we'll see...
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: greywolf27030 on March 17, 2017, 10:28:15 AM
Keep us informed.

Thanks, Jack Byrd
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Gaz on March 17, 2017, 03:14:13 PM
(https://www.google.com/search?q=underbody+chassis+bracing&oq=underbody+chassis+bracing&aqs=chrome..69i57.15075j0j4&client=ms-android-boost-us&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=KgSKYOWav8_7MM:)

What about frame bracing, like this?
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 17, 2017, 05:07:08 PM
Noone offers any frame bracing. Only UltraRacing still supports the BF 323 everyone else like Corksport gave up.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Gaz on March 17, 2017, 08:09:06 PM
What would be the advantage over strut bars? I don't mind fabrication.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 17, 2017, 10:22:36 PM
I would think it would help with the keeping the car from twisting. One thing ive noticed greatly without the Hardtop the Capri has tons of bodyroll, so any rigidity will help. Ive seen a few Miata peices that might work but im unsure.
With just strut bar stabilizers you really only affect the suspension. The main area of body roll is the unibody itself because how weak not having a roof has made it.

Im not sure how right I am I think someone with Rally experience could explain it better.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Gaz on March 17, 2017, 10:36:42 PM
Well, you're right on the money. The hardtop is really the completing piece of the rigidity in it. I just wondering if there's a way to emulate that underneath the vehicle rather than over. It was either this concept, or build a all in one roll cage that would mount in the existing holes on the header.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 18, 2017, 03:38:20 PM
I should have the other pieces in time to install them all next weekend.  If all goes well, I might have to take some measurements and see if I could get any of their other pieces to work on my 1997 Subaru SVX.  I would imagine if the distance between mounting points is the same, and a straight bar or slightly bent one (like the front lower bar) would clear everything, it should work on my SVX?  All I'd have to do is give them those measurements, then they can see if they have a bar that would fit?  'Course I have to keep in mind the SVX is AWD, so that might limit some choices.  We'll see...     
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 22, 2017, 09:26:06 PM
So here are the three pieces I got from Ultra Racing.  The top piece is the front lower strut bar, the middle piece is the rear lower strut bar, and the bottom piece is the rear upper strut bar.  On their website or eBay store, these pieces are all for a Mazda 323 BF. 

(http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy319/socal1200r/Misc/Capri_20170322a_zpspoye33mo.jpg) (http://s803.photobucket.com/user/socal1200r/media/Misc/Capri_20170322a_zpspoye33mo.jpg.html)

These pieces shipped VERY quickly, considering they came all the way from Malaysia to the east coast of Virginia.  They were wrapped in plastic, then bubble-wrapped, and the ends were wrapped in cardboard and taped.  There wasn't a scratch or dent on any of these pieces after I unwrapped them.  The pieces themselves seem to be well made, very sturdy, and nicely powdercoated.  If I didn't already have a front upper STB, I would've ordered one from them as well.  I attempted to install the front lower bar, but couldn't break the bolt loose, so I'm going to have a shop install the front and rear lower bars.  I would imagine an impact gun will make quick work of breaking those bolts and nuts loose.   

I installed the rear upper bar, and it fit perfectly.  Took more time trimming the carpet around the bar than it did to install it:   

(http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy319/socal1200r/Misc/Capri_20170322b_zps7tcldodx.jpg) (http://s803.photobucket.com/user/socal1200r/media/Misc/Capri_20170322b_zps7tcldodx.jpg.html)

As has already been mentioned with these products, they don't come with any instructions.  But if the fitment of the lower bars is anything like the rear upper one, all I'll have to do is point out where they go and let the shop do the rest.  There was one thing with the rear upper bar though that I wasn't expecting.  After I got the bar installed and the carpet trimmed, I put away my tools and stuff, and went to close the trunk.  Well, that wasn't going to happen, because the bar interfered with the struts being able to move so the trunk could close.  I had to remove the struts in order to close the trunk, so now I have to figure out another way to keep the trunk open.  I think my first option is to see if a regular prop rod will do the trick.  Find a place to anchor it, measure to see how long the rod has to be, then spend some time at Pick and Pull and get one that's close enough. 

I road-tested the car after installing the rear upper STB, and what a difference.  I could tell right away, the car was MUCH quieter, like having the hard top on quiet.  And it felt more "together", unlike the twisting sensation, squeaks, rattles, and other noises it had before.  The side windows seem to fit better against the top, so there was a lot less wind noise.  The front and back parts of the car seem more connected than before.  I'm expecting the car to really be solid after the front and rear lower bars are installed.  Might get that done tomorrow.  Whenever it's done, I'll try and take some pics, with a road-test impression. 
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: DarkAngel on March 23, 2017, 03:39:10 AM
Nice writeup... any chance you could try putting the boot struts on a wider profile... like on either side of the new rear brace someplace ?
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 23, 2017, 09:23:52 AM
I thought I had BTown put a picture up of how he got his struts to work. Ill go looking for it again, basically what he did was add a metal support bar to the strut to hold it up.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 23, 2017, 09:27:46 PM
Got the front and rear lower bars installed today.  The shop had to use washers on the rear bar, apparently the nut wasn't big enough to cover the slot in the mounting cup.  The fronts were okay, but it did take two of them to attach both bolts.  Initial impression is it's pretty tight in the chassis, feels and sounds like it has the hardtop on.  Will have to take it on a longer road trip, on a combination of road surfaces, to make sure having all four of these bars on the car didn't make the suspension TOO stiff. 

(http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy319/socal1200r/Misc/Capri_20170323a_zps63eapksc.jpg) (http://s803.photobucket.com/user/socal1200r/media/Misc/Capri_20170323a_zps63eapksc.jpg.html)

(http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy319/socal1200r/Misc/Capri_20170323b_zpsigm0reqn.jpg) (http://s803.photobucket.com/user/socal1200r/media/Misc/Capri_20170323b_zpsigm0reqn.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 24, 2017, 03:12:58 PM
Let's say having all four strut bars on makes the car TOO stiff for everyday driving, and I want to keep both upper STBs on the car.  Would removing the front or rear lower bars make the car less stiff?  I guess I'm asking which lower bar, the front or the rear, does more to stiffen up the car?  Since it's fwd, there's more weight on the front, along with being the driving and steering wheels.  The rear wheels are just along for the ride.  I guess I could always remove the rear lower bar, which is the easier of the two, and see how it feels.  Just wondering if there's a common sense argument to be made for removing one or the other? 
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on March 26, 2017, 08:16:34 PM
I would say take off the rear lower bar, because IMO the front lower bar should help with torque steer. When you mean it's too stiff could you explain it for me?
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on March 26, 2017, 09:52:58 PM
I would say take off the rear lower bar, because IMO the front lower bar should help with torque steer. When you mean it's too stiff could you explain it for me?

It's hard to explain, it's more like the suspension feels like a board going over potholes and pavement ripples, as opposed to having all four wheels act independently.  Like the front and left sides are tied together, like a leaf spring suspension.  It's not that bad, just noticeable.  Ride was good with the front and rear upper STBs, but now with both lower STBs it seems too stiff, as far as ride quality goes.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: greywolf27030 on April 02, 2017, 11:14:30 AM
I was wondering about welding in a brace below the existing header, low enough to get under the hinges and tied to the header.  You'd loose access to the top well by how low you chose the put it.  A square tube with square tube braces up to the existing header?  Paint it body color.  Just thinking.

Jack Byrd
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on April 02, 2017, 09:47:04 PM
Sounds like it would be a good idea Jack, could also serve as a really good scrap pan.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: greywolf27030 on April 03, 2017, 10:25:29 AM
Sounds like it would be a good idea Jack, could also serve as a really good scrap pan.

Don't understand scrap pan?

Jack
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on April 03, 2017, 02:15:14 PM
It's basically a steel plate that protects the oil pan from slams or bumps.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: NomakeWan on April 05, 2017, 02:05:57 AM
So a skidplate, yeah.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: greywolf27030 on April 05, 2017, 09:46:28 AM
It's basically a steel plate that protects the oil pan from slams or bumps.

Wrong end...lol  Go inside the trunk where you installed the bolt in brace that interfered with the struts.  Go below the struts and weld in a square tube with bracing to the existing one about the struts.

Jack Byrd
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: chrispoe on April 07, 2017, 10:06:43 AM
I would say take off the rear lower bar, because IMO the front lower bar should help with torque steer. When you mean it's too stiff could you explain it for me?

It's hard to explain, it's more like the suspension feels like a board going over potholes and pavement ripples, as opposed to having all four wheels act independently.  Like the front and left sides are tied together, like a leaf spring suspension.  It's not that bad, just noticeable.  Ride was good with the front and rear upper STBs, but now with both lower STBs it seems too stiff, as far as ride quality goes.

The lower strut bars shouldn’t change the stiffness of the suspension at all.

It sounds to me like the auto shop had the car in the air and the suspension hanging in full droop when they installed them.  If this is the case, your rubber bushings are probably binding.

Before tightening rubber bushings on control, lateral, and trailing arms, you should have the car on the ground sitting at ride height so they don’t bind.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: greywolf27030 on April 08, 2017, 12:20:03 PM
Point noted.

Jack Byrd
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: socal1200r on April 09, 2017, 04:02:57 PM
I would say take off the rear lower bar, because IMO the front lower bar should help with torque steer. When you mean it's too stiff could you explain it for me?

It's hard to explain, it's more like the suspension feels like a board going over potholes and pavement ripples, as opposed to having all four wheels act independently.  Like the front and left sides are tied together, like a leaf spring suspension.  It's not that bad, just noticeable.  Ride was good with the front and rear upper STBs, but now with both lower STBs it seems too stiff, as far as ride quality goes.

The lower strut bars shouldn’t change the stiffness of the suspension at all.

It sounds to me like the auto shop had the car in the air and the suspension hanging in full droop when they installed them.  If this is the case, your rubber bushings are probably binding.

Before tightening rubber bushings on control, lateral, and trailing arms, you should have the car on the ground sitting at ride height so they don’t bind.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but the points where the lower bars attach to are stationary, they don't move up and down like the other parts of the suspension?  If that's the case, I don't see what difference it would make if the suspension was up in the air or not?  Unless if the suspension was drooping, they attach the lower bars, then when it's lowered back to the ground things didn't quite return back to their normal place?  Again, some instructions would've been helpful... 
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: WashiestSnake on April 09, 2017, 07:17:44 PM
No they do actually move the front/rear bars connects the LCAs which is what makes the car go up and down along with the springs, the car keeps in Independent suspension but the brace connects both sides, so basically when you go over a bump only one side moves but the other side gets sent some of the force thus making the car more stable in the turns.
Title: Re: Chassis Bracing
Post by: Btown on April 06, 2019, 06:18:46 PM
If you do fit the boot strut brace, yes you will need to remove boot lift struts. Few issues here, how do you hold up boot lid, also the soft top cover also uses the gas struts to stay up. What I did was fabricate a 40mm straight extension with hole each end. Connected to the soft top cover with pin as usual, sourced two more pins and attached to gas strut. The angle stops boot lid opening all the way by its self, but once lifted all good. Also helps to support soft top cover.