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 21 
 on: July 12, 2018, 10:23:21 AM 
Started by rls120 - Last post by Gas
The good news is the 1.6 is a non-interference engine, so if a belt breaks or slips it won't trash your engine. If you're within spec, I'd run it as-is and see how it goes. Too tight will cause the belt to whine and wear it out faster.

 22 
 on: July 12, 2018, 12:31:12 AM 
Started by rls120 - Last post by rls120
I'm changing the timing belt and adjusters with a kit from Gates Rubber while replacing the head gasket.  Instructions tell me to install the belt, line up the pulleys, install the tensioner spring, then torque down the pulley.  (Interestingly, nor torque value is given for the pulley without the tensioner).  Then rotate the crank a certain amount and check belt deflection.  Spec calls for .375 to .45 deflection at the top between the two cams.  I've got .39, which just LOOKS and FEELS way too loose to me.  I'm using a brand new spring that came with the belt, pulleys, and adjuster.

If these engines are interference, and the cam belt is installed too loose, I'm going to trash the whole thing in a heartbeat!  I don't want that to happen.  My question pertains to how the adjuster functions.  Once that bolt is torqued properly, does the spring continue to hold the correct tension on the belt as it stretches, or is it like the cam chain on an old Honda motorcycle, needing to be loosened and retorqued periodically to maintain proper tension?

What do you guys think?  I just want to make sure I have this right so it doesn't grenade on me!

 23 
 on: July 09, 2018, 05:01:52 PM 
Started by ShadetreeMechanic13 - Last post by Gaz
I've got that i believe

 24 
 on: July 08, 2018, 11:32:49 AM 
Started by Stickshifter6 - Last post by Stickshifter6
Thanks for the reply rocket man, I will check that stuff also I noticed it's in first gear too so it's not one gear only

 25 
 on: July 07, 2018, 12:13:59 PM 
Started by ShadetreeMechanic13 - Last post by ShadetreeMechanic13
Does anyone know where to find the rod that push into the back of the master cylinder from the clutch pedal? I've been looking but keep coming up empty handed. I can order everything else.

 26 
 on: July 07, 2018, 04:56:00 AM 
Started by Stickshifter6 - Last post by Rocketman
Could be fuel, if I were to start checking stuff I'd look at the ignition system first, a lot easier to inspect & could be the culprit.
-Spark plugs
-Plug wires
-Cap/rotor

 27 
 on: July 06, 2018, 06:56:10 PM 
Started by Stickshifter6 - Last post by Stickshifter6
I have a 1993 Capri with manual transmission. For some reason in 2nd gear with steady throttle as the revs increase I notice the car hesitates than starts to pull like normal. It's never done this before I think I would of noticed it. Could this be related to a fuel issue such as the injector?? I haven't really noticed it in other gears

 28 
 on: July 05, 2018, 04:05:20 PM 
Started by pilotlars - Last post by Trackerrrr
Rockauto shows a lock cylinder for a '93 Protege but not the Capri. You could compare the pictures online to yours and see if they match.

Also you can take yours to a locksmith and see if they can fix.

 29 
 on: July 04, 2018, 08:45:34 PM 
Started by rls120 - Last post by SHOwn
For the record, XR2S can lift the head and break the head gasket seal an mine did and was pushing oil out the right front corner near the oil return passage. May not be common, but mine also overheated once, breaking one of those pencil thin coolant hoses feeding the turbo.
I went with ARP head studs and a Cometic head gasket and a mill job.

 30 
 on: July 04, 2018, 08:20:45 PM 
Started by ShadetreeMechanic13 - Last post by SHOwn
Or pull a used one if you can find one. My friend across town had one in his hulk that had around 100k on it, good as new. It worked out fine on my car.

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