TeamCapri

Tech, Repairs, Upgrades => Capri XR-2 89-94 => Topic started by: jman2030 on April 23, 2018, 09:25:31 AM

Title: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: jman2030 on April 23, 2018, 09:25:31 AM
Where under the dashboard is the ignition switch diode located? Because my Capri will not start now. And I read that is a primary cause.
Title: Re: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: Rocketman on April 24, 2018, 09:09:43 PM
Where did you read that? Just curious, can't remember a diode being a problem.
What are your symptoms? Crank/no start/no tach bounce?
Title: Re: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: jman2030 on April 25, 2018, 07:22:58 PM
Just installed a new clutch. But before that when I turned the key to the full off position it would continue to run like I never shut it down. As I was looking for the answer. Cane across Modern Capri Parts.biz. According to what I read. What was going on was a typical symptom of a ignition switch diode going bad. So now after I have installed the new clutch and reassembled everything. I can crank it over. But, it's not starting because even when I just turn the key to the run position the check engine light doesn't even come on. And I already tested the bulb and it light up. So right now I don't know if the ECM is even getting power to it at all. And everything else works like there's no problem. So I'm stumped.
Title: Re: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: boomingbeetle on April 26, 2018, 10:28:25 AM
Given my own phantom electrical gremlin experiences... Are you 100% sure that you cleaned and re-connected all the ground straps on the trans and motor block?  Especially the ones at the thermostat?  Also, check to be sure you reconnected the plugs on the air box (coil and VAF).  Coil gives you spark, VAF turns on fuel pump.  Do you have other symptoms?  can you verify fuel pressure or hear the pump turn on, can you test for spark?
Title: Re: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: jman2030 on April 26, 2018, 05:16:36 PM
Yes I did all that. New fuel pump. New water pump and timing belt. Cleaned all the harness connectors with contact cleaner. Fuel pump comes on when it cranks like it's supposed to. Spark is good. Failed noid light test. And I didn't even come anywhere near the ECM at all. I was doing a clutch. Didn't even take the starter because of all the brackets around it. Battery was completely out of the car during the clutch install. Also installed a new ignition switch as well.

Supposedly this diode is in the ignition switch circuit. It controls one of the relays for the ignition circuit.

Here's the link to see what it looks like http://shop.moderncapriparts.biz/catalog/SearchResults.cfm

Also the relay in the cabin fuse panel. If that goes bad. Will that effect the ECM as well?
Title: Re: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: boomingbeetle on April 26, 2018, 06:13:31 PM
Hmmm. If you can find it and take a picture, MikeH is parting a car and he might be able to hook you up with a replacement. Check his thread in the parts section, he just sent me a few misc items last month
Title: Re: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: blueamber on April 27, 2018, 12:56:38 AM
If the cylinders are gas flooded, then ECU is turning injectors on maybe all the time = nostart flooded.  If not flooded and if you got spark and fuel (like you said) then the car needs to try to run unless the injectors aren't working (no gas into cylinders) or timing is way off (spark when the valves are open=no run).  If starter spray makes the engine run, then its an injector issue based on good spark and good gas to injectors (what you said).  Bad main relay or no power to main relay will not let the injectors run, or bad ECU.  Who did your timing belt and is it guaranteed to be installed right?
Title: Re: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: chrispoe on April 27, 2018, 08:43:26 PM
There is a diode under the dash which is used for the buzzer, it ties into the ignition relay. If this diode failed(shorted out), it would send power from the room fuse(10A) back into the ignition relay, then into the meter fuse(10A). From there it would go to the ignition switch`s output. Which could keep the car running until it blew a fuse.

If this is what happened, then the fuse ROOM would probably blow, followed by the METER fuse.

You said you have no check engine light with the switch in run, so the first thing I would check are these two fuses under the dash.



Edit: If one of them fuses are blown, unplug the diode or remove the ignition relay no 1 before replacing em
Title: Re: Ignition switch problem.
Post by: jman2030 on May 07, 2018, 11:30:32 AM
Update all three diodes tested good. ECM tested good as well. It's not getting power at all. Already have installed a new ignition switch. May be a broken wire or corrosion at all of the harness contectors in the engine compartment. Because before I traded a 50 cc scooter for this car it was sitting outside for a few years. So it's time for me to clean up all of the connections to rule that out all together. And then perform continuity testing from there.