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Author Topic: Head bolts  (Read 7783 times)

SHOwn

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    • 91 XR2
Re: Head bolts
« Reply #15 on: June 30, 2017, 11:40:49 PM »

Ok, thanks for the replies. At first, I didn't think it could just be hydraulic lash adjusters, but what you are saying seems probable. I went through everything again, removing the upper timing cover and checking the marks against the distributor rotor and the crank pulley marks. All looks perfect. I read a few posts about setting timing and figured out that it can't be 180 degrees off if the rotor is pointing at #1 and the marks are all correct. I started it again and she clattered on about 2 cylinders and smoothed out a little. I shut it off and tried again and it's down to 1 cylinder making noise I think. It definately isn't missing, but it's getting better, but taking its time doing so.

So it idled about 15 minutes like that last night, checking timing, and checking connections, and I ran it another 15 tonight reviewing timing, and it still clatters (sounds like maybe one or two HLA's).

I cleaned the pistons with some SeaFoam and a 3M scotch-brite scuff pad and it really cuts the gunk nicely, but leaves a slippey surface. I have used it previously in my SHO, cleaning the intake through the brake booster vacuum method with good results, but I wasn't sure about using it in the crankcase. Along with the head work I did an oil change, using Valvoline high milage synth blend 10W30. I could add the 3/4 can of sea foam and run it a bit but I'd have to read up on it. I don't remember how long you should try this.

Thoughts? I'm planning on buttoning up the splash shields and putting the wheel back on tomorrow and taking it for a short drive to see if it ever settles down.

Az, I hope I don't have to pull the head to pull those HLA's. This was a ton of work. Wonder if I should talk to the machine shop about it.
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

SHOwn

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    • 91 XR2
Re: Head bolts
« Reply #16 on: July 01, 2017, 09:19:19 PM »

Alright, that's a lot to go to bed on, and I got tired of thinking about it - it would just keep me up thinking about it half the night. I remembered what I had read the day before from 2 Chronicles 20, how Jehoshaphat was in a much bigger fix and prayed and told the Lord "We do not know what to do, but our eyes are on you." God was gracious and willing to step in and save them out of their trouble in an awesome way, so I figured, well - I don't know what to do either, so I figured I'd pray about it and stop worrying about it. The thought of pulling a camshaft after all the work I'd done had me freaking out. So I asked the Good Lord to heal the HLA's and quiet it down, remembering how good He is.

So I hopped in it this morning wondering if i was going to SeaFoam it, pull a Camshaft or what. I prayed again and gave it a twist and it clacked a little and started, clattering and immediately settled down to a perfectly quiet idle. Wow! I'm thanking Jesus for that one! Remember, I had ran it 15 minutes to time it then another 15 to do it again and it was not stopping the clatter.

I put the timing cover on again and drove it for a half hour and remembered why we enjoy these hard to fix cars so much! What a beautiful drive on a beautiful West Michigan day!

I appreciate all your help talking me through these over my head repairs. I found that doing a Capri aluminum head is more challenging than doing a 2.3L or 2.5L Ford cast Iron head any day. Those usually don't give you trouble with studs pulling out.

Thanks again everyone for all the quick replies and sharing your experience. I believe the leaks are finally beat!
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

azgtx

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Re: Head bolts
« Reply #17 on: July 02, 2017, 08:21:19 PM »

Seafoam likely cut the crud in the sticky hla's. I have used acetone in the past and that usually fixes it quick. I don't usually recommend it as it can wear on tired oil seals but running it for 15 min and dumping the oil has always worked for me.
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SHOwn

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    • 91 XR2
Re: Head bolts
« Reply #18 on: July 02, 2017, 08:28:13 PM »

I didn't use a thing, the seafoam was hand applied to the pistons while apart. None in the oil or head. But after reading up on it it isn't a bad idea for a short time 300 miles or so. Thank God I didn't need to anything.
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

rls120

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    • 1991 Mercury Capri xr2, 1994 Wrangler, 1994 Saab
Re: Head bolts
« Reply #19 on: July 04, 2017, 09:17:40 PM »

That is great!  Glad you got it working as it should without undue strain.  Enjoy.
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i_miss_smurfette

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Re: Head bolts
« Reply #20 on: August 08, 2018, 08:56:27 PM »

If you don't mind my asking,
how much did the machine work cost you?
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SHOwn

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    • 91 XR2
Re: Head bolts
« Reply #21 on: August 08, 2018, 09:29:16 PM »

It was at least $450, but I let all the records go with the car when I sold it in June.
They took out the cams, put in the stem seals, magnafluxed and milled the head to flatten it and hot tanked it.  I remember it being considerably more than the 2.5l Ranger head they did for me about 5 years earlier ( $300.)
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.
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