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Author Topic: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question  (Read 2605 times)

Rocketman

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #15 on: October 29, 2016, 10:47:01 AM »

The wastegate should be held tight by the spring. 1/4" may be too much? You'll want to arrange it so the actuator rod is not coming in at an odd angle. I think I ended up drilling two holes in between the three so mine could mount nicely.

I have re-used exhaust gaskets before without issue. YMMV, though.

I have also re-used the copper crush washers. Do not over-tighten the banjo bolt. It'll snap where it is cross-drilled.
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1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #16 on: October 29, 2016, 02:34:48 PM »

Thanks so much Matt! That should be enough to get me going today. I won't feel bad about more disassembly to get a little more access now.
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #17 on: October 31, 2016, 09:40:24 AM »

 I Slotted the holes pretty good, maybe 3/8" travel. It definitely was binding due to some axial torsion of the actuator rod and the flat end of the rod being bent a little to aid installation. I have it moving freely with no gate attached, but it seems to need about 10lbs no matter how I position it to open the gate halfway. 8.1 lbs seems to be impossible to do when i tighten the actuator to the turbo. There must still be some axial misalignment, or maybe 8.1lbs is unachievable?

I checked my compressed air with a dial precision tire gauge and my new boost gauge and my compressor pressure seems to be accurately measured. I can maybe make movement with 9 lbs, better movement with 10, but it almost seems to want about 11 lbs to open all the way.

Any thoughts on this? I hate to think about ripping this assembly off a 3rd time.
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #18 on: November 02, 2016, 08:57:36 AM »

So with the absence of input, I think I'll try to take my best shot at it tonight. Might be pulling this thing off again Saturday though. Hopefully, I can get it to open a little at 9lbs. I will set this up so that the rod has the shortest and most perfectly aligned path so that the gate opens the greatest amount (even though the way it had been stock was angled somewhat and wouldn't have opened as much).

I figure to err on the side of too open and I can get a cheap boost controller to tone it down if I'm opening too quickly.
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

Rocketman

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #19 on: November 02, 2016, 10:24:26 PM »

Do you have any pictures you can post, of what your wastegate actuator looks like installed?

Can you add some washers as spacers to lessen the preload on actuator?
Are you using the VJ11 or VJ14 actuator?
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SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #20 on: November 02, 2016, 11:33:46 PM »

Don't have the time to figure out the pic posting again - this iPad is difficult to select from photobucket with the slow speed I'm dealing with tonight.

I'm using the stock vj14 waste gate actuator, the vj11 is about a half inch shorter and I don't know what it is rated at.

I could shim a little, but I think I'm going to bend the bracket a little more and try it again.

The weird thing is this is a very strange game of micro adjustment. There is virtually no difference in the location of the vj11 and vj14 CHRA outer dimensions, and the compressor housing is almost exactly the same thickness.

This thing should easily fit.
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2016, 12:08:55 AM »

Vj14 when it came off the car...


Will have to follow up in a minute, Safari fails to resume posting when I go get url's

Thanks for the help
« Last Edit: February 01, 2018, 09:03:26 PM by SHOwn »
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #22 on: November 03, 2016, 12:43:15 AM »

Vj14 as it came off my car again...
« Last Edit: February 01, 2018, 09:13:44 PM by SHOwn »
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2016, 12:55:05 AM »

...and the vj11 hybrid on the bench, first view. Boy this takes a while...


« Last Edit: February 01, 2018, 09:22:00 PM by SHOwn »
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #24 on: November 03, 2016, 07:23:07 AM »

Vj14 original slotted actuator...
« Last Edit: February 01, 2018, 09:26:29 PM by SHOwn »
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #25 on: November 03, 2016, 07:28:23 AM »

Vj11 hybrid on bench at vj14 alignment position...
« Last Edit: February 01, 2018, 09:19:21 PM by SHOwn »
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

WashiestSnake

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #26 on: November 03, 2016, 01:49:35 PM »

Vj14 when it came off the car...


Will have to follow up in a minute, Safari fails to resume posting when I go get url's

Thanks for the help
to do a url you have to use the url button above the textbox, and then place the url in between the two bracket sets. So its like [Url/whatever IDR] example.com[Url/IDR]
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1991 Mercury Capri 68,xxx Miles--Project(AWD)
1996 Lincoln Continental -- The Boat(Given to my Brother)

azgtx

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #27 on: November 03, 2016, 08:44:37 PM »

The gate flapper should be held firmly to the turbine housing. The actuator will open it starting a 8psi so if there is no binding it will open easily if the actuator is good. you can reuse the steel gaskets without issue if they are not burnt. As for the copper crushers you can reuse them but get some Permatex silver sealant and use it on all of the fittings and h2o hoses. Those leaks are nagging when you have it all back together.
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SHOwn

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #28 on: November 14, 2016, 01:14:32 PM »

Ok, time for a quick update and a little info on what worked and what didn't.
I used 3 of those plate clips that hold IHI compressor housings to the CHRA (had donor extras from the trashed vj14), as spacers between the actuator bracket and the compressor housing that those 6 mm bolts go into (as pics show, I also slotted the actuator bracket holes). I went for the most natural fit that was as direct as possible, meaning that my actuator ended up a little more parallel to the direction of the exhaust ports on the manifold, not as skewed as OEM. My using spacers shortened up the distance to the waste gate, so my waste gate didn't fit quite as tight at closed position as stock (quite firm). So now it doesn't take as much boost to begin opening it up. By shortening the distance from actuator to gate a little, I aimed at opening earlier so I could have more flexibility controlling boost.

My strategy worked. The waste gate operates freely when driving, too freely, coming open at approx 5 lbs. but no worries - the manual boost controller I just recieved was able to tune this so that she smoothly makes up to 11lbs of boost and no creep. It could go higher, but I don't want to go lean (no RocketChip yet).

I'll try to post a few pics later. I also installed an aftermarket mechanical boost gage that confirmed that the stock gauge was reading way off. Maybe half of reality. Sure feels nice to have full power back.

What didn't work was solving oil leaks which seem to be worse than ever but that's a different thread. The turbo oil leak is gone, and the breather on the valve cover fixed the blow by problem, but either my crank main, my oil pan or could it be my head gasket that is causing oil to run down the belt end of the oil pan and moisten below the head along parts of the block? I just replaced the pan gaskets and it might even be worse. One year ago I replaced both cam seals and the crank seal and maybe it started being more noticible after I got the water pump timing belt job finished. Seems like I can't win with stopping the flow.
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R. Powell
'91 XR2, LM 16" Chrome Drifters, White Gauge Faces, Kuhmo 40's, Big Brake UG, 2.5" Mandrel Bent CATback, BMW318 Heated Seats, `94 console, '99 Dodge Neon Spoiler, '94 XR2 Sideskirts Bumpers and taillights, Fresh Basecoat-Clearcoat Cardinal Red (Jul2014), vj11/vj14 hybrid, manual boost CTL.

WashiestSnake

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Re: Quick Turbo CHRA Installation Question
« Reply #29 on: November 14, 2016, 07:59:29 PM »

Hey Ron I was watching a video on a turbo miata with the b6 he said after he got boosted he was geting head lift and that it was causing all sorts of oil leaks around the head. Apparently it didnt stop till he replaced head bolts with arp hardware. If you want Ill link it here.

Best Luck
Mike H
« Last Edit: November 15, 2016, 05:29:32 AM by WashiestSnake »
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1991 Mercury Capri 68,xxx Miles--Project(AWD)
1996 Lincoln Continental -- The Boat(Given to my Brother)
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