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[chrispoe]

Also, when switch is on , I am still receiving 12v at fuse, just not at switch. Does this mean I'm screwed and the wire from fuse to switch is corroded just enough that when the circuit is open, there ks too much stress and not enough power making it through, meaning I have to run another red wire?

Sorry to tell you this, but it looks like this is probably going to be the case.

There is one electrical connector about 6 inches from the engine fuse box (it only has the one red wire  going through it) then it goes into the fender wall. If you have 12V there while the headlights are turned on and the circuit is loaded and not at the headlight switch, then it looks like the wire is bad.

The larger the load is on a circuit, the more noticeable poor wiring and connections become via voltage drops.

If that is the case, then go and get some 12 gauge wire and try jumpering from the “head” fuse to the red wire going into the headlight switch and see if the headlights work.


I had a similar issue last year with the driverside corner marker light. I tried putting a new bulb in but it still didn’t work. I measured the voltage with the bulb out and had 12V but with the bulb in I only had 1.3V. I was able to get it to work with a led bulb though because it didn’t place a large enough load on it to cause the voltage to drop very much. But that is only a temp fix cuz it will get worse as the bad spot in the wire continues to deteriorate.

[nucapri]

Alrighty. Can I just jump from the fuse right to the headlight switch? Or is there another branch that needs power from this wire.?

[chrispoe]

The wire should provide power to the headlight switch and to the combo switch.
You may be able to just splice the new wire to the existing wire at the headlight switch and use the old existing wire to send power to the combo switch for flash to pass depending on where the bad spot was.

[nucapri]

Ok. So, I kept the old wire and connected it together with the new wire. I ran the new wire through, and up to headlight switch. I cut the old wire here, and attached the new wire to the switch.  Now I have running low and high, headlights. But still do not have a dimmer or speedometer light. Flash to pass doesn't work, but the high beams do. So, I am at the point where Id rather have the headlights over a flash to pass, but I do need a light for the gauges. I am not sure whats up with this.

And then another issue, is the alt/water pump belt. squealin' and broke 2.. but thats another thread.

[chrispoe]

Sorry for the delay, I'm finally sobering up from holiday/Summerfest...LOL

If you want the flash to pass to work, just run a piece of wire from the headlight switch to the combo switch, the wire at both locations is solid red.


As for the interior lighting, I’m going to need a little more info.

Do any of the interior lights work when you turn on the park lights and the ignition switch is in the off position? Clock, cigar lighter, Dash switches, HVAC controls, and radio?

When the ignition switch is in the ACC or RUN position, do the clock and radio illuminate? If they do, do they dim when the park lights are turned on or do they stay at full brightness?

The clock and radio should illuminate to full brightness when the ignition is turned to the ACC or Run position and the park lights are turned off.  When the park lights are turned on,  the radio relay is engaged and the this switches the source power for the clock and radio illumination from the ignition switch to the dimmer control module.



As for the broken alternator belts, I upgraded mine to the 91-96 Escort GT’s alternator belt, It’s a 1/8 wider and is considerably stonger.

[NiteLord]

... have you cleaned up the four ground wire connection directly behind the right headlight...there is a four wire ground combo that connects into a single ground wire that goes to the engine block..clean up all these contacts including the main wire to the engine block...these are ground wires for your headlights and wipers..