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Author Topic: Wearever Pads Negative Experience  (Read 5970 times)

mitch1204

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    • 1991 Mercury Capri NA Auto/ 1994 Mercury Capri NA
Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« on: May 20, 2015, 12:17:54 AM »

Last year I had a AAP gift card and bought some Wearever Silver pads. I didn't need them at the time but they were on sale so on my shelf they went.

A couple days ago I went to install them. I couldn't get them to fit in the groove channels on the calipers. Upon closer inspection the metal bases were a hair wider than the old pads. So I decided to take a flat file to shave off the excess. Boy them things are a poor casting. As I filed through the paint you could see how uneven they were. I succeeded making a good fit. Then I started on the other side. The inside pad has clips that fit inside the caliper piston. It was missing and was laying in the box.

I've used Wearever pads many times with no problems until now. I determined these were junk and went back and spent the extra money on a set of Wagners. I also bought a new brake hardware kit for $8.99 which includes a spring and rattle clips for both sides. They help finish the job to like new performance as the clips are coated for smooth operation. They also help if you lost the spring and have no idea where it went, lol.

Just a heads up so you don't go through what I went through.
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greywolf27030

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2015, 09:03:45 AM »

Good info, thanks Mitch.

Jack
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Jack Byrd

chrispoe

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2015, 10:07:30 AM »

I had a simular experiance with wearever pads being to large to fit about 10 years ago. Never bothered to buy that junk again, now I only buy premium ceramic pads.
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greywolf27030

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2015, 08:21:56 AM »

Well, my rears brakes went out and Wearever's were the only thing I could get on short notice.  At 150K I had to hammer the old pads off and after wire brushing everything, I had to hammer the new ones on.  I didn't have time to fiddle with them.  How loose are the pads supposed to be?  File the lower corners until they just snap into place?  Also, the mounting bolt tube on one caliper had to be hammered back far enough to get the caliper to bolt back on.  Can the rubber boots be removed and the tube cleaned up so it will move freely?  I'm thinking I maybe need to spend some time loosening things up to get them to work properly.

Jack Byrd
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Jack Byrd

mitch1204

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2015, 04:34:19 PM »

Too loose can cause more problems. It should be tight but not so tight you have to use a hammer. A little brake lube on the slide points like the guide bolts never hurts. If the guide bolts on the rear are in sad shape they are available. There's a more extensive brake hardware kit for the front.

Always check the old pads for warning signs like uneven wear. If it's back together I would first road test it and see if you notice anything. If you feel a problem then test again using just the parking brake. Finger on the button if course, lol.

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greywolf27030

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2015, 08:46:31 AM »

Too loose, a problem, that's interesting.  I lubed the contact points on assembly, so that's covered.  They seem to function properly, except that I don't have as much e-brake as before.  The pads were worn out evenly with the inside left going to the metal and barely any pad left on the others.  That's the one with the sticking tube.  I was really surprised at how evenly worn they were.  Having the experience of swapping them out, I am really considering going in and hitting those corners with a file a little.  Hydraulic pressure will activate them easily, but will they be dragging after application because they fit so tightly in the brackets?

Jack Byrd
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Jack Byrd

chrispoe

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2015, 09:24:02 PM »

The outside pad should be a tight fit while the inside pad where the piston is should be able to slide freely in the bracket.

When you hit the brake, the piston pushes on the inside pad and the caliper(piston housing) pulls the outside pad into the rotor along the guide bolt sleeves. When the guide bolt sleeves seize to the caliper, it’s no longer able to pull the outside pad in or it can gets stuck with the pad dragging on the rotor. The uneven wear on your left side was caused by a seized sleeve and the reason your e-brake doesn’t work as good as before is probably because the sleeve is still binding up and not allowing the caliper to fully clamp the rotor.

My suggestion is to remove the caliper, remove the rubber boots and pull the sleeves out so you can clean the outside of the sleeve off with some sandpaper or emery cloth. Then just grease the caliper holes/sleeves, reassemble, and verify the sleeves slide freely inside the caliper before putting the caliper back on the car.
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mitch1204

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2015, 09:57:25 PM »

Good explanation! 😜
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greywolf27030

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2015, 10:28:36 AM »

The outside pad should be a tight fit while the inside pad where the piston is should be able to slide freely in the bracket.

When you hit the brake, the piston pushes on the inside pad and the caliper(piston housing) pulls the outside pad into the rotor along the guide bolt sleeves. When the guide bolt sleeves seize to the caliper, it’s no longer able to pull the outside pad in or it can gets stuck with the pad dragging on the rotor. The uneven wear on your left side was caused by a seized sleeve and the reason your e-brake doesn’t work as good as before is probably because the sleeve is still binding up and not allowing the caliper to fully clamp the rotor.

My suggestion is to remove the caliper, remove the rubber boots and pull the sleeves out so you can clean the outside of the sleeve off with some sandpaper or emery cloth. Then just grease the caliper holes/sleeves, reassemble, and verify the sleeves slide freely inside the caliper before putting the caliper back on the car.

That was my thinking.  Gonna have more nice weather in the next few days, think I'll work on that a little bit.

Thanks, Jack
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Jack Byrd

greywolf27030

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2015, 07:24:22 PM »

The outside pad should be a tight fit while the inside pad where the piston is should be able to slide freely in the bracket.

When you hit the brake, the piston pushes on the inside pad and the caliper(piston housing) pulls the outside pad into the rotor along the guide bolt sleeves. When the guide bolt sleeves seize to the caliper, it’s no longer able to pull the outside pad in or it can gets stuck with the pad dragging on the rotor. The uneven wear on your left side was caused by a seized sleeve and the reason your e-brake doesn’t work as good as before is probably because the sleeve is still binding up and not allowing the caliper to fully clamp the rotor.

My suggestion is to remove the caliper, remove the rubber boots and pull the sleeves out so you can clean the outside of the sleeve off with some sandpaper or emery cloth. Then just grease the caliper holes/sleeves, reassemble, and verify the sleeves slide freely inside the caliper before putting the caliper back on the car.

Having rethought the matter, as the pads are not attached to the caliper, does the outside pad also need some movement so that the pad can freely move away from the disc when pressure is released?

Jack
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Jack Byrd

chrispoe

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2015, 09:14:04 PM »

No, the outside pad is mounted in a fixed location on the caliper bracket and the entire caliper+bracket moves to compress and release the outer pad. This is why it’s important that the bolt guide sleeves slide freely.
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greywolf27030

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Re: Wearever Pads Negative Experience
« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2015, 09:46:05 AM »

It appeared to me the outside pad upper tab seats on the same groove as the inside pad and would work the same.

Jack
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Jack Byrd