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Author Topic: Head light motor works "too good"  (Read 2548 times)

roger935

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    • 92 capri 5 spd n/turbo, a/c,
Head light motor works "too good"
« on: July 29, 2014, 04:31:55 PM »

Just acquired a 92 model with 143K   Head light motor was an issue.  I followed advise found on this forum and found gear mechanism very cruddy in spite of someone attempting to seal it with a rubber liquid.  Motor works too good in sense it goes up and down in a constant winking!! other side is normal.   I THINK I have a sycyn problem?  When I removed linkage from motor shaft it has a conical spline  not as "D" indexing.   Bottom line-  I had not idea how to index it.  The door opens  up and down 5 or 6 times and than it finally stopsOr I might of hit button to stop.  Right now I have them in up position and locked there so I could driver at night legally The mount to motor is horizontal when is up position like the other when I use manual adjustment.  Any tricks I should know ar try??     I hope I gave enough detail??   This was a recycled motor with the "yellow"  id    Thanx's
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blueamber

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Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2014, 06:21:45 PM »

Did you actually take the motor apart and try to clean it?  A properly cleaned and lubricated motor will not act this way.

Sync has nothing to do with your symptom.  Once you get this or another motor working properly, simply put the motor in the up position using the switch, and attach the linkage so the light in the up position...Chris
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Rocketman

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Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2014, 09:03:41 PM »

If it's constantly cycling, there's a connection issue somewhere, or the contact inside the rotary switch are not making a connection.

The motors are all dipped in a rubber coating from the factory - maybe you have an original un-opened motor? They all look pretty cruddy in there at this age.

The only "indexing" that needs to be done is if you removed the splined armature while the motor was out, and lost position. When the motor is reinstalled - move the headlights to the UP position. Once the motor itself has moved to the UP position, you can fasten the linkage to the drive spline with the light in the UP position. Test a few times to make sure it closes properly, tweak as necessary.

Someone talked about the motors losing sync somewhere - that's not electrically possible. The switch inside the motor is a position encoder that reports to the headlight module. If the lights move opposite each other, one of your linkages is attatched 180 degrees the wrong way. If the light keeps cycling, the module is sending an up/down command but not getting any feedback from the switch
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1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


JJ

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Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2015, 06:15:44 PM »

I'm attempting to remove a headlamp motor now. I see the large round electrical connection, but don't know how to get it out. Does it just pull straight out and it's stuck? or do you twist it or anything?  It's kind of tight in there and I can't get a very good grip on it.

JJ
« Last Edit: January 18, 2015, 10:38:12 AM by JJ »
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mitch1204

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    • 1991 Mercury Capri NA Auto/ 1994 Mercury Capri NA
Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #4 on: January 12, 2015, 07:00:09 PM »

If I remember correctly you remove the headlamp and go in that way to remove it. Plenty of room that way.
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JJ

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Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #5 on: January 12, 2015, 07:18:08 PM »

headlamp and washer bottle are out. I'm not talking about the connection to the light. I'm talking about the connection to the motor.
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blueamber

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Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2015, 07:40:10 PM »

The arm attached to the motor, after removing the nut, gets pried straight with a screwdriver...
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mitch1204

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    • 1991 Mercury Capri NA Auto/ 1994 Mercury Capri NA
Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2015, 09:31:39 PM »

Not sure what you meant by connection... but after you have the headlight and bezel off then you take the center nut off the motor and pry it off if you have to like JJ said. The electrical connector is accessed on the other side in the engine compartment by the washer bottle. Use a screwdriver if you have to. Lift the retaining tang and push at the same time.
Then you have the three bolts holding the motor. They are all 10 mm.

Is it the electrical connector or center nut you having problem with? You could always take the nut off the adjustable bracket then get the center nut off after you have it out. Just make sure you put it back the same. You can see the nut mark left on the adjustable slider thing.
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blueamber

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Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2015, 09:04:57 AM »

Ah, the white connector... that tab on the connector keeps it from coming apart.... it must be raised away from the body of the connector while at the same time pulling the connector apart... I poke a screwdriver under the connector to keep it raised and pull the connector apart...
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JJ

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Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2015, 03:08:13 PM »

yeah, found that out. plus it was a bit tight.

Wish i knew about that stupid little arm before I pried it off w/ the screwdriver.... I don't know how it goes back on.  I do see a tiny bit of yellow paint. I'm wondering if that lines up to where the arm needs to point.  wish I had scribed it before removing, but I thought it was just a square hole or something, so one or maybe two ways on, not those tiny ratchet marks!!

I'm debating whether to take this motor apart to clean the disk or try to use...

On another note, what causes the relay chatter?  maybe linkage too tight and applying too much force to motor? or something else?  old car never chattered before, but also now the headlamps sat for 3 years, now it does....  same exact problem I was hoping to fix on the other car.
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blueamber

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Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2015, 06:47:03 PM »

You put the arm back on after the motor is installed.  It just shoves on, gets immobile with the grooves in the motor shaft.  Turn the headlight motor switch to up, put the arm on the shaft pointing to the up position...

Relay chatter was probably responding to moisture and crud in the motor assembly, causing internal arcing.  Be brave, take it apart, make those inner parts shine, lubricate it, and you are done.  Just make sure the little washers are put back properly...
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mitch1204

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    • 1991 Mercury Capri NA Auto/ 1994 Mercury Capri NA
Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2015, 09:13:25 PM »

At least with my car the motor and brushes were in good shape but I did a full did a full disassembly. The worse part is the dried up hard old grease under the side gear cover. Take that apart first and then on to the motor housing. After I seen the good brushes I just did some light sanding to clean up inside the cover and put dabs of white lithium grease on the shaft ends. After you have the gear housing good and clean then moderately grease the gear teeth and any other moving parts.

That adjustable bracket should have score marks from the old nut but it's like blueamber said. I'm convinced 90% of people buying motors could of got away with just cleaning and greasing their old ones.

You can go here and download I think Group 32, lighting systems. It has instructions on the headlight motor removal and installation.

http://techcapri.home.comcast.net/~techcapri/1991_Service_Manual.html
« Last Edit: January 13, 2015, 09:24:45 PM by mitch1204 »
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mitch1204

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    • 1991 Mercury Capri NA Auto/ 1994 Mercury Capri NA
Re: Head light motor works "too good"
« Reply #12 on: January 13, 2015, 09:23:32 PM »

I forgot, if the chatter continues after the motor cleanings then suspect the headlamp relay. The points in it might have a little arc or are worn uneven. If you like dissecting stuff like I do, lol, a piece a sandpaper in between the points does wonders. Make sure you seal the relay back up good. Use silicone if you have to.

One thing I learned about these Capris is the electrical connections including all connectors and ground straps are susceptible to moisture. Make it a project to remove and clean all grounds and connections. Then put a dab of dielectric grease on each connection, front and back. That will take care of any future problems.

I had all kinds of electrical gremlins when I bought mine. I haven't had any since I done that a year ago.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2015, 09:26:12 PM by mitch1204 »
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