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Author Topic: Free Online Chilton Guides ***Any Car***  (Read 6499 times)

Gostlrs

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Free Online Chilton Guides ***Any Car***
« on: January 11, 2012, 05:18:00 PM »

Here is a link that can get you to any Chilton Manual you want. Best thing it is free. You can thank the Michigan Public Library

Edit: Copy the link that is in-between the " " and paste it into a new tab or browser. This should work. This forum turns the link invalid when hyper-linked.

"https://elibrary.mel.org/validate?url=http%3A%2F%2F0-infotrac.galegroup.com.elibrary.mel.org%3A80%2Fitweb%2Flom_accessmich%3Fdb%3DCHLL"

Simply enter a fake ID Number that begins with a letter then has 12 numbers after it..

Example

A123454365434

BOOM......Your in. Have fun and make this a sticky if you want!
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rcdraco

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Free Online Chilton Guides ***Any Car***
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2012, 05:36:00 PM »

Do you have a working link, without the broken ellipses?
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Rocketman

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« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2012, 05:54:00 PM »

Yeah, your link is broken. Too bad there isn't a chiltons for the Capri
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Kev93

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« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2012, 02:26:00 AM »

I managed to get it by entering this string at Google:  "chilton manuals site:mel.org"

The top of about 5 links is labeled "Chilton's - MeL" and points to a resource that begins like this:
"http://0-infotrac.galegroup.com.elibrary.mel.org/itweb/lom_accessmich"

Clicking that link, I was then prompted for a login, per the OP's post.

I'd say that this is by no means a full Chilton manual, but it's their online database of knowledge.

The subject tree for the '93 Capri looks like this, more/less:

+General Information & Identification
+Brakes
+Chassis Electrical
+Diagnostics
+Driveline
+Engine Cooling
+Engine Electrical
+Engine Mechanical
+Engine Performance & Emission Controls
+Fuel Systems
+Heating, Ventilation, & Air Conditioning
+Steering
+Suspension
+Transmissions
+Wiring Diagrams

Each of those headings is "expandable" with more links under it, so there's a fairly good number of things to read and possibly print.  I thought the trouble code list under "diagnostics" might be handy ... but I'm no mechanic.  I'm not sure how it compares with the PDF's I d'loaded from someone's site a month or two ago ... I've not looked at them much.
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/* Just along for the ride */
\\\'93 XR2 in progress | Daily Driver | 5th Gear Swap | Rocketman VAF Adapter

Gostlrs

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Free Online Chilton Guides ***Any Car***
« Reply #4 on: January 12, 2012, 03:30:00 AM »

Weird the link did not work on this forum. It is the same one I have been using for years. Same link I have posted in other forums without any issues as well.

"https://elibrary.mel.org/validate?url=http%3A%2F%2F0-infotrac.galegroup.com.elibrary.mel.org%3A80%2Fitweb%2Flom_accessmich%3Fdb%3DCHLL"

Copy and paste this and see if that works. Its the same link
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Gostlrs

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Free Online Chilton Guides ***Any Car***
« Reply #5 on: January 12, 2012, 03:31:00 AM »

Copying everything in-between the " " and pasting in a new tab works now for me. I will edit the original post to add


& Matt it has the Capri on there...Just not the 91 year...I know it has 94 because I used it when researching some things

As the title says....ANY CAR
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rcdraco

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« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2012, 04:19:00 AM »

Okay, I don't see every car listed on here.  It just pops up asking for vehicle year, make, model.  Final Generation Capri isn't listed, nor final generation RX-7.  And when I looked up front brake rotor replacement under 323 I almost fell out of my chair when it said:

Remove wheel, remove rotor from hub.
Install new rotor onto hub, replace wheel.
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Gostlrs

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« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2012, 04:40:00 AM »

94 capri is there...

you are correct on the RX7 maybe because it was only made for a few years here in the states it never got to the point to produce them & archive online

Edit: According to the Chilton website the paper copy of the final gen RX7 in the USA was not made. They did not make a Capri one either but have some online information

this is no mean a bible on how to repair your cars. Some cars it has great step by step information. Others is generic. regardless its there for free to use if you want or not.
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Gostlrs

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« Reply #8 on: January 12, 2012, 04:46:00 AM »

this is from a 88 323, Dont know what you saw but it looks pretty specific to me with photos even..

Removal & Installation

For front wheel bearing removal, installation and preload adjustment procedures on rear wheel drive cars, see Section 1 . For front wheel bearing removal, installation and preload adjustment procedures on front wheel drive cars, see Section 8 .

    Raise the vehicle and support it securely by the center crossmember using axle stands. Inspect the disc brake rotor as described below. If the disc requires replacement or machining, inspect the wheel bearing and then remove it.

    Spin the tire to check for roughness in the bearing or unusual noise. Then, remove the wheel and unfasten the brake caliper, as described above. Hang the caliper out of the way without disconnecting the hydraulic line.

    Pull the rotor from the hub.

To install:

    Install the rotor onto the hub.

    Install the brake caliper and torque the upper bolt to 12-18 ft. lbs. (16-24 Nm) and the lower bolt to 14-22 ft. lbs. (19-30 Nm) on 1986-87 323s and 1983-87 626s. On 1988-89 323s, torque both caliper bolts to 29-36 ft. lbs. (39-49 Nm), and on 1988-89 626s and MX-6s, torque both caliper bolts to 58-72 ft. lbs. (79-98 Nm).

    Install a new driveshaft locknut and torque it to 116-174 ft. lbs. (157-236 Nm) on 323s and 1983-87 626s, or 174-235 ft. lbs. (236-318 Nm) on 1988-89 626s and MX-6s. Crimp the nut into the groove in the axle with a dull tool until at least a 0.06 in. (1.5mm) indentation is produced.

    Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle.
---------------------------------------------------

Here is section one for the Front wheel bearings
Removal & Installation

This procedure requires many special tools. Read the procedure over first, and determine availability of the special tools before you start work. In some cases, it may be less expensive to have certain operations performed by a local repair shop than to purchase the appropriate tools.

    Loosen the lug nuts. Raise the vehicle and support it safely. Remove the tire and wheel.

    Raise the staked tab from the hub center nut, remove the nut from the axle. Apply the brake to help hold the rotor while loosening the nut.

    Using ball joint puller tool 49-0118-850C or equivalent, separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Disconnect the horseshoe clip that retains the brake line to the strut. On the 626 and MX6, remove the stabilizer bar control link from the control arm as described previously in this section.

    Remove the mounting bolts that hold the caliper assembly to the knuckle. Do not allow the caliper to be supported by the brake hose; support it with wire.

    Remove the through-bolt and nut that retains the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and disconnect the ball joint.

Front hub, knuckle and bearing assembly-323

Front hub, knuckle and bearing assembly-323
Click to Enlarge
Front hub, knuckle and bearing assembly-626

Front hub, knuckle and bearing assembly-626
Click to Enlarge
Removing the outer front wheel bearing's inner race-1983-87 626

Removing the outer front wheel bearing's inner race-1983-87 626

    Remove the two bolts and nuts retaining the strut to the steering knuckle. Separate the steering knuckle and hub from the strut and axle shaft. On 626 and MX-6 with ABS, remove the speed sensor from the strut bracket.

    The hub is pressed through the wheel bearings into the knuckle. Removal/replacement of the hub requires wheel hub puller tool No. 49-G030-725/49-G030-727 (or equivalent) for the 1983-87 626 and 323, or Nos. G49-G033-102, 104 and 105 (or equivalent) for 1988-89 626 and MX-6.

On 1988-89 626 and MX-6, if there is an inner race on the front wheel hub, grind or machine a section of the bearing inner race to approximately 0.02 in. (0.5mm) and remove it with a small cold chisel.

    Remove the inner oil seal and bearing. Remove the outer bearing using a press and tool 49-G030-725/49-G030-728 for the 1983-87 626 and 323 in order to remove the bearing from the steering knuckle. Drive the outer and inner race from the knuckle with a brass drift and hammer. On 1988-89 323, remove the outer bearing race with tools 49-B092-372 and 49-F401-366A and then withdraw the outer oil seal from the front hub. On 1988-89 323, remove the bearing outer race with tool 49-FT01-361 and a press and remove the wheel bearing. On 1988-89 626 and MX-6, press the bearing from the hub using tools, 49-G033-102, 104 and 106.

    Inspect the knuckle for cracks, heat damage, or rust. The dust cover may be left in place unless it is damaged. If it must be replaced, note its position before removal or scribe alignment marks. Then, install a new one using a pipe about 3.19 in. (81mm) in diameter and a hammer or press. Replace the oil seal if it is damaged or worn at the contact surface.

Position the dust cover on the 626 steering knuckle as shown

Position the dust cover on the 626 steering knuckle as shown
Staking the front hub locknut

Staking the front hub locknut

    Inspect the oil seal for proper position. If it has moved upward, press it back into position. The knuckle should be placed so it is securely supported by its center, that is, the center of the knuckle should be aligned with the spindle of the press. Then, press in the new bearing with a piece of pipe about 2.6 in. (66mm) in diameter bearing only on the outer race.

    Install new inner and outer races as required. Make sure that the edge of the race contacts the steering knuckle. Pack the inner and outer bearing with grease and install in knuckle. Use tool 49-G030-728 for the 1983-87 626 and 323 to press the hub into the steering knuckle. On 1988-89 323, use tool 49-V001-795 to seat the bearing in the hub. On 1988-89 626 and MX-6, use tools 49-G030-797, 49-F027-007 and 49-H026-103 to install the wheel bearing.

    On 1983-87 models, measure the preload with a scale connected to the caliper mounting hole on the knuckle. Various spacers are available to increase or decrease the preload. Preload should be 1.7-6.9 ft. lbs.

    On 1988-89 323, measure/adjust the preload as follows:

        Insert the bearing and spacer into the steering knuckle and install tool 49-B001-727. Tighten the tool to 145 ft. lbs.

        Connect a spring scale to caliper mounting bolt hole on the dust cover and pull on the scale to measure the bearing preload (starting rotation torque). This preload should be 0.53-2.55 lbs. for 13 in. wheels and 0.48-2.35 lbs. for 14 in. wheels. When tightening the preload tool, torque in 36 ft. lb. increments.

        If the preload is not within specification, spacers are available in a variety of thicknesses to adjust it. Increase the spacer thickness when the preload is too high and decrease the thickness when preload is too low.

    Install the inner and outer grease seals. Press fit the hub through the bearings into the knuckle.

    Installation of the knuckle and hub is in the reverse order of removal. Always use a new axle locknut and cotter pin. On 323s, torque the axle shaft locknut to 116-174 ft. lbs. On the 626 and MX6 torque the locknut to 116-124 ft. lbs. Stake the locknut after tightening. Use a small cold chisel to stake the locknut tab. After the tab is staked, make sure that at least 0.16 in. (4mm) of the tab is in the groove.

For all brake caliper/disc removal and installation procedures, please refer to Section 9 of this manual.
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Rocketman

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« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2012, 05:01:00 AM »

For certain cars yes, but there's very limited or vague info as it would pertain to our Capris.

They did not have a paper version available for the 91-94 at any point that I'm aware of. It seems like the only technical info they have is recycled from the 88/89 323

LOL under "diagnostics" you can pick VIN 6 W/AUTO
which is never something that was offered...(turbo + automatic)
Here's an error:
Trouble Code: P0161 (1.6L L4 VIN 6 Auto)
HO2S-22 (Bank 2 Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction

So yeah, apparently we have TWO heated oxygen sensors & use an OBDII error system? On my automatic XR2?

For the Capri stick to a FSM or TechCapri, it actully has detailed info actually written for the capri...
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Gostlrs

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« Reply #10 on: January 12, 2012, 05:43:00 AM »

Come on..I have seen several turbo automatics listed on Craigslist.
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rcdraco

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« Reply #11 on: January 12, 2012, 08:19:00 AM »

I hope that's a joke.  And no I'm well aware of how to change my front rotors, and it's called take the knuckles off and pay a guy $150 a side.
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Rocketman

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« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2012, 08:27:00 AM »

If you looked up 90/91 323 - that's a BG chassis. The rotors come right off on them.
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bhazard

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« Reply #13 on: January 12, 2012, 09:39:00 AM »

For $150 per side I hope he's supplying the parts, cleaning and painting everything... I paid $15 a side to have the knuckles taken apart, new bearings pressed on...etc... I supplied the parts.
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waretrop

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« Reply #14 on: January 12, 2012, 11:31:00 AM »

Did as suggested and copied everything between the "" and popped right up.  Used a letter and 12 numbers and got right in.  Looked for my 93 Capri and there it was.  Did find it quite interesting that when you open the tree and the get further into sections, there is a window in the lower right corner that tracks each item and searches eBay for the parts.  Must be how they pay for the on-line site.  Kerry
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