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[Slimbob]

Hello,
Time to get to work on my 92 N/A Capri.
What does everyone use for manual transmission fluid in the N/A Capri?
I know the manual says Mercrury brand.
What is everyone using?

Thanks,
Slimbob

[Rocketman]

From the factory they are filled with automatic transmission fluid (ATF) even though they are manual transmissions.

The nonturbo transmission you may be fine with ATF, the XR2 seems to work a little better with actual gear oil (80w90 or similar)

Check your underhood sticker for your temperature ranges - there's a chart there

[tonlaw71]

I just used Mercon (I think that's it) ATF in my N/A. Used 80w90 in my first XR2 and am currently running Pennzoil Synchromesh in my XR2 which cured my grinding problems!! Love that stuff! Thanks for the tip, Rocketman! 

[capriBill]

I just finished replacing the manual transmission gear oil in my 92 XR2. It now changes gears easily and goes into reverse much better. It took a bunch of time to determine what kind of oil I should put in. I found a great match to the 80W-90 GL-5 option suggested for the car. It is synthetic and is rated to last longer than the normal gear oil. It will also work better in higher and lower temperatures. They say it will last as long as 100,000 miles. The gear oil I had was very dirty after 76,000 miles.

All I needed to do was:
1. Use a 19mm socket for the drain plug that can be reached under the front of the car near the driver side wheel. I just loosened it first to make sure I could get it out.
2. Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the speedometer cable in the top of the transmission. It is near the back of the transmission and can be reached with a foot and a half of extensions from the top in the engine compartment. After removing the bolt, I reached in and turned the gear as pulling it out. After removing it I looked to see how high the oil was so I knew how much to put in when refilling. The shop manual said I had to remove the cable from the gear, but it was not necessary and I did not have a special 18mm open ended socket needed to do it.
3. Remove the drain plug to drain the transmission. Wait a little while to make sure it all gets out.
4. Replace the drain plug. I torqued it to about 40 lb-ft, using a torque wrench, a bunch of extensions and a universal joint.
5. Use a funnel with a 1 and 1/2 or 2 feet of tubing to reach the hole where the speedometer cable was removed.
6. Fill the transmission with a little less than 3 quarts of oil.
7. Check the level by pushing in the speedometer cable gear and removing it. The level should be a little higher than the top of the gear.
8. Push back in the speedometer cable, and put back the bolt that holds it.
DONE

It took about an hour, but that was because I was careful not to make any mistakes.

The oil I used can be found here:

http://www.revworksinc.com/Amsoil-Synthetic-80W-90-Gear-Lube_p_659.html

[Slimbob]

Thanks guys. Good info all around.

Slimbob

[greywolf27030]

This is great, should be a sticky.

Jack Byrd

[twopass]

Pennzoil Synchromesh  Is good stuff !
I use it in both my Festivas and both my Capris .It realy improved shifting in my cars .
With  atf I had tough time going into reverse on the first Festiva so from then on I use the Synchromesh only.

[greywolf27030]

Kewl, gotta get me some.

Jack

[chrispoe]

I use Amsoil 75w90 gear oil in my tranny.  I tried putting ATF oil in my 91 N/A as the shop manual said to do with bad results. I initially noticed it took slightly longer to get the gears to sync. It wasn't until I did an hour plus of spirited driving and finding out it would take nearly a second in order to get the next gear to sync that made me realize putting ATF oil in a MTX was a mistake .
The problem with ATF oil is that it’s too thin to provide the proper amount of friction for use in a MTX.

[greywolf27030]

I changed to Pennzoil Sycromesh today and it seems to work very well.  Mine has 145K on it and due to the degree of difficulity, I'll guess this is the first time it's been changed. 

Jack Byrd

[EZFEED]

Mercon with just a pint of Lucas additive

[garlson]

I also use the Pennzoil Sycromesh and have no problems whatsoever.

[Pappy T]

Something that might be advisable to do when pulling speedo housing is to clean both mating surfaces before reinstalling and putting a little anti seize to them or grease of some sort as well as maybe some dielectric grease on O ring. Had this been done to mine after having set around dormant for several years before I got it I wouldn't have trashed the speedo gear unit getting it out...several pieces in fact. Finally used a dent puller to extract it . It's tight enough in there, why take a chance on having it freeze up on there and have a boatload of fun trying to get it out !

[JJ]

yeah. broke the housing on mine trying to get it off the first time. took bolt off, but rest of it seemed welded in place.

luckily i found another. not sure if I'd be able to find one nowadays as easily or as cheaply.

JJ

[Rocketman]

Once they're out, they usually are free from then on forward. The tabs like to break off, but the rest of is usually okay.

When tightening them down, make sure it's seated all the way, don't use the bolt to draw it down. That will snap it off.

A small U-Shaped piece of metal cut out, with a bolt hole drilled, will hold it down incase you manage to break it. There is not a whole lot of force on it when in operation