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[need4speed428]

Has anyone ever tried this? Some of the base model 323's used a manual rack and I was wondering if it was possible to steal it for the capri. I like the idea of getting rid of the weight and complexity of the power steering plus it would give me a few extra horsies to get out of corners.

[stinkweed]

I was just pondering the same thing over the weekend.I found a 92 323 hatchback at the local salvage yard with a 1.6L,5spd,manual steering,and no a/c.I was wondering if the manual rack would bolt up to the capri body & steering column.I also noticed that this 323 had slide off front rotors.I wonder if it would be worth the trouble to change out the spindle assemblies for easier brake jobs or go ahead and upgrade to the VR4 rotors?anyone have any thoughts on these ideas?

                                        thanks  :cool:

[need4speed428]

It probably won't work off the 92 thats a different chassis. It might but I don't think so. Yeah just go with the VR4 upgrade thats what I did. Makes brake jobs WAAYY easier.

[JJ]

I was wondering if that brake swap would work. Good to know for the future.

JJ

[Rocketman]

The 1992 323 is a BG chassis (1990 + is BG). The capri is a BF chassis. The rack isn't interchangeable, nor are the rotors. The BG chassis used a 4x100 bolt pattern and the BF used a 4x114.3 so the holes on the rotor wouldnt fit.

[need4speed428]

Yeah the rotors off that car won't work. When I say VR4 upgrade i'm talking about the rotors off an 88-89 mitsubishi Galant.

[Rocketman]

Technically its not even the VR4, just a 266 mm rotor from the 89 Galant.

[stinkweed]

I did some research on the manual rack idea and this is what I found. At the local Carquest that I do business with, I borrowed a couple of catalogs.The 91-94 capri all take the same rack & pinion (part#26-1942)with power steering.The catalog also shows that the 86-89 mazda 323& protege also take the same R&P as the capri but also have a listing for a manual R&P (part#24-2624). I would assume that the mounting points and geometry would be the same between the two since they fit the same mazda car in the same years.The only unknown is the splined shaft.I think I'm going to have my parts guy order both of these R&P's and do a visual comparison.If its the same I'm going to covert mine to manual steering and strip the a/c while I'm there.
 I have a question concerning the VR4 rotor swap.
The specs on the rotors are 266 mm or 10.43" with a 4.5 bolt circle.I have a n/a capri with a 9.36"
rotor.Will the VR4 conversion work with my stock spindles or do I need to find a donor XR2 for parts? The catalog also shows the bolt circle for both capri's to be 3.70",is this correct or a typo
error?
                                   thanks,
                                  stinkweed

[need4speed428]

Your bolt circle info is wrong. All capri's have the same bolt circle. Yes you can do the conversion with the stock spindles. People have done the conversion on n/a 323's as well. Thanks for the info on the rack and pinion! I think i'm gonna swap mine out.

[Rocketman]

Just an FYI on the PS delete if its possible - your A/C / PS belt tensioner IS the PS pump - so if you want to keep the A/C you need to build your own tensioner or put an idler where the PS pump currently is.


I'd imagine the spline on the manual rack would be the same - no sense in making the steering linkage different for different options on the same chassis. It wouldnt make sense from a manufacturing standpoint. Not the say they WOULDNT do it, but it wouldnt make sense.

I think power steering was standard on all models of the capri (expept for maybe the '89 aussie rhd version) which would make sense why it isnt listed as having an alternative rack.

-Matt

I have read about the manual conversion on the 323's before, and they didnt mention having to change the linkage due to spline or any other problems.

[stinkweed]

Project "manual" has been completed.It works!I went to Autozone and ordered a manaul R&P for an 89 Mercury Tracer/Mazda 323(part # RP2219) and installed it into my 91 n/a.It just bolts right up with the exception of the rh body mount.The manual R&P tube is smaller than that of the p/s unit.This was remedied by buying a sway bar bushing kit also from Autozone (part# 9.5165RC). It is made by Energy Suspension and it was on the wall over where the red poly bushings kits are.I went ahead and changed my sway bar bushings while I was under there too (part# 9.5164RC).I'm not sure if I'm happy with the changes.It still drives ok on the hwy,but around town it takes considerably much more effort to navigate rural roads and parking lots.Steering radius doesn't seemed to have changed but getting it into a parking space is tough.It is definately different from my old Fords with manual steering.Potholes and uneven pavement are much more noticable and harder to correct than with p/s.It may be because our cars have wider wheels and tires.I'll probably drive it a week or two before I decide if its right for me.It does save some weight though,the pump w/pulley is 11 lbs,the bracket and lines are 5 lbs,and the difference in the R&P's is probably 3 to 4 lbs.About 20 lbs all together.It took about 4 hours to do it with hand tools and that included a lunch break,a nap on the creeper etc...Ya'll know!!! The cost was about $250.00 and it was a very easy job.Is it worth it? That's up for debate.   :cool: