TeamCapri

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Summer will be upon us soon! Make sure you check the Meets subforum to see if there's a get-together near you!

Pages: 1 [2] 3

Author Topic: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings  (Read 14723 times)

Rocketman

  • Administrator
  • Old-Timer
  • *****
  • Posts: 5010
    • 91 BPT AWD Capri & 1991 XR2
    • http://www.werbatfik.com
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #15 on: August 06, 2014, 09:49:53 PM »

This is a bearing separator:
 Used with a hub puller, it will pull the old bearing off the hub without grinding/chiseling or brute force.

Yes I believe the Festiva is setup exactly the same way.
Logged
1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


greywolf27030

  • Old-Timer
  • *****
  • Posts: 694
    • 88 Festiva, 91 Capri, 91 XR2
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #16 on: August 07, 2014, 09:24:30 AM »

Okay thanks, I can see how that would work.  Since I have a the Capri and a Festiva and an extra set of Capri hubs I think I'll check into that.  Wonder if Harbor Freight tool would be good enough quality to do a few bearing jobs?

Thanks again, Jack
Logged

Rocketman

  • Administrator
  • Old-Timer
  • *****
  • Posts: 5010
    • 91 BPT AWD Capri & 1991 XR2
    • http://www.werbatfik.com
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #17 on: August 07, 2014, 11:57:42 AM »

HF tools should be sufficient to get the job done. Personally I ordered a bearing splitter online several years ago, and I had the hub puller from other maintenance projects.
Logged
1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


mitch1204

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 398
    • 1991 Mercury Capri NA Auto/ 1994 Mercury Capri NA
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #18 on: January 10, 2015, 12:34:07 PM »

This is a bearing separator:
 Used with a hub puller, it will pull the old bearing off the hub without grinding/chiseling or brute force.

Yes I believe the Festiva is setup exactly the same way.

I bought one of them splitters at Advance for around $32 with my discount. They have all the other loaner tools to make the job easier. You'll need a puller like a steering wheel puller to use with the splitter. See them two threaded holes on it. Then bearing and seal driver kits are handy. One can even take the hubs to a NAPA shop and they'll do it for around $10 a side. They do it in a couple minutes with their hydraulic press.

It sure does look like you put the inner seal on backwards. :) Maybe it's the photos but look at #3 and #11 and compare.

Logged

mitch1204

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 398
    • 1991 Mercury Capri NA Auto/ 1994 Mercury Capri NA
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #19 on: January 10, 2015, 08:30:30 PM »

A couple questions as I prepare for this job. The parts store lists the same bearing fits inner and outer. Is that so? It also doesn't specify auto or manual so that doesn't make a difference?

One last question it also list the same spindle nut as M20x1.5, a 29mm socket for both sides. No left and right thread like the rear? The rears were a 21mm socket.

Logged

Rocketman

  • Administrator
  • Old-Timer
  • *****
  • Posts: 5010
    • 91 BPT AWD Capri & 1991 XR2
    • http://www.werbatfik.com
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #20 on: January 10, 2015, 10:04:02 PM »

Yes, it's the same A18 bearing for the inner/outer, no difference between models. The seals are different between inner/outer.
The axle nut is 29mm. The rears have one reverse threaded, the fronts are not.
Logged
1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


xan175

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 7
    • 91 Capri XR2
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #21 on: February 20, 2016, 09:38:36 AM »

Nope. The rear hubs are sealed units - designed to be non-serviceable, when they wear out you replace them. Isuzu stopped making cars, and stopped making replacement parts (there were only 800 RS's sent to North America anyway)

The hub and housing are actually the races themselves, with more or less loose ball bearings inside. The races wear out and being that they are integral with the hub and the housing they cannot be serviced. Sucks! I'm going to be working with one of the guys to cast a new, oversized housing to to try to fit a nice sealed bearing in there.

I had a bad bearing in the rear of my 91 and this post got me a little confused.  It seems for my 91 at least, the rear rotor is used as the hub also,  it is not s sealed unit.  Replacement is simular to your write up (or an older ford) you just drive new races into the rotors slap in a new oil seal on the back but the important thing is you need a new lock nut to install,  they are one time use only.
Logged

Rocketman

  • Administrator
  • Old-Timer
  • *****
  • Posts: 5010
    • 91 BPT AWD Capri & 1991 XR2
    • http://www.werbatfik.com
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #22 on: February 24, 2016, 08:46:11 PM »

Nope. The rear hubs are sealed units - designed to be non-serviceable, when they wear out you replace them. Isuzu stopped making cars, and stopped making replacement parts (there were only 800 RS's sent to North America anyway)

The hub and housing are actually the races themselves, with more or less loose ball bearings inside. The races wear out and being that they are integral with the hub and the housing they cannot be serviced. Sucks! I'm going to be working with one of the guys to cast a new, oversized housing to to try to fit a nice sealed bearing in there.

I had a bad bearing in the rear of my 91 and this post got me a little confused.  It seems for my 91 at least, the rear rotor is used as the hub also,  it is not s sealed unit.  Replacement is simular to your write up (or an older ford) you just drive new races into the rotors slap in a new oil seal on the back but the important thing is you need a new lock nut to install,  they are one time use only.

Correct - in that post I was referring to a different vehicle (1991 Isuzu Impulse RS) which has zero aftermarket or factory replacement parts
Logged
1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


Capritain

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 71
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2016, 11:00:15 PM »

It's getting warmer now I will attempt to separate the knuckle and hub again to replace the lugnut.
So that's it just heated up and pound on it to separatr it?
We'll start off with the knuckle removed.  heat to arm helps to free stud.
The hub should come out of the knuckle fairly easily. If not a socket and a few gentle taps from a hammer from behind should free it.
Logged
91 CAPRAI N/A 5-Speed
D-town, Iowa

Rocketman

  • Administrator
  • Old-Timer
  • *****
  • Posts: 5010
    • 91 BPT AWD Capri & 1991 XR2
    • http://www.werbatfik.com
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #24 on: April 17, 2016, 06:12:39 PM »

It's getting warmer now I will attempt to separate the knuckle and hub again to replace the lugnut.
So that's it just heated up and pound on it to separatr it?
We'll start off with the knuckle removed.  heat to arm helps to free stud.
The hub should come out of the knuckle fairly easily. If not a socket and a few gentle taps from a hammer from behind should free it.

no heat to get the hub out of the knuckle! too much sensitive stuff
Logged
1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


azgtx

  • Old-Timer
  • *****
  • Posts: 548
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #25 on: April 17, 2016, 07:45:10 PM »

Honestly I cannot believe anyone ( sorry Matt) would use a hammer to do this job where a bearing is involved. One of the best tool buys I have ever made was a press from HF. That thing has paid for itself time after time with these asshole design captured rotors. Press the assembly apart, press out and in the lug studs and press the hub back into the rebuilt knuckle..it does it all..along with the bearing separator shown above. The thing to remember with these is you put the knuckle together first..meaning new races, put in the packed bearings with the spacer..and use Timken Set 11's and nothing else, and do not lose or mix up the spacers between knuckles, ideal would be to use the preload tool, and put in the new seals to hold the bearings in. Then you press the hub into the assembled knuckle assembly. I would also recommend putting on new rotors while it is apart...doing it again prematurely to replace the rotors you should have replaced means another set of new bearings. When you torque the wheel nut it will all be pulled together. Some may say this is bs and I am not spending the time and money..remember that when you could be doing it again in 5000 miles changing warped rotors or bearings you buggered up beating them in with a hammer. Take it for what it is worth. Use a drift punch and not a screwdriver please on the races. Also check your hubs for scoring and replace if needed. Also the spacers are matched to the knuckle where casting and machining differences could occur. Use the Set 11's as that is the oem bearing thus keeping the preload as close to as it was..unless of course the tool is at hand then you can dial it in perfectly.

Clay
Logged

Gaz

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 361
  • Do no harm, take no sh!t.
    • 92 XR2, 96 Outback, 77 KZ650
    • Saint Cloud Exhaust
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #26 on: April 19, 2016, 09:21:46 AM »

I wonder if anybody could tell me how they determine the spec of the bearing preload spacer. I could probably lathe some.
Logged

azgtx

  • Old-Timer
  • *****
  • Posts: 548
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #27 on: April 19, 2016, 09:56:55 AM »

They are determined by using the preload tool. The OEM spacers are number stamped that correspond to a thickness ..all lined out in the FSM for both the Capri and the 323. The spacers are still available from Mazda.
Logged

Gaz

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 361
  • Do no harm, take no sh!t.
    • 92 XR2, 96 Outback, 77 KZ650
    • Saint Cloud Exhaust
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #28 on: April 19, 2016, 11:24:32 AM »

Oh cool, alright then.
Logged

chrispoe

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 385
    • 91 BP Capri GT
Re: HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
« Reply #29 on: April 19, 2016, 03:04:41 PM »

It's getting warmer now I will attempt to separate the knuckle and hub again to replace the lugnut.
So that's it just heated up and pound on it to separatr it?
We'll start off with the knuckle removed.  heat to arm helps to free stud.
The hub should come out of the knuckle fairly easily. If not a socket and a few gentle taps from a hammer from behind should free it.

You apply heat to the end of knuckle’s steering arm so the outer tie rod’s tapered stud will come off the knuckle much easier.



There’s nothing wrong with using a hammer/socket to drive the hub out of the knuckle if you’re going to replace the bearings anyway…LOL

I do agree about replacing the rotors and lug studs if you already have them apart for doing the bearings.
Thankfully I don’t have to go through any of this anymore since I upgraded to the BG setup.
Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3