Tech, Repairs, Upgrades > Brakes/Suspension/Tires/Wheels
HOW-TO: Capri Wheel Bearings
Rocketman:
[UPDATE 4/5/2023]
Eshepherd came to my shop with his knuckles, with his help we replaced his bearings and filmed the important parts of the process. This is a correct version of the process. Link to the video:
https://youtu.be/F8bqpZ_I_Jk
OLD POST:
Hey all. I've heard way too many stories of bearing jobs gone bad on BF's, I figured I'd do a little guide. I'm not claiming this as the proper way to do them, there are some tools that will make it easier so take it as you may, YMMV. I used what tools I happened to have on hand.
We'll start off with the knuckle removed. You should know how to get here, brief rundown: 2x 14mm caliper bolts. 1 1/8" axle nut (unstake first). 2x 17mm bolts on strut. 1x 17mm castle nut on tie-rod end, gentle heat to arm helps to free stud, don't mash the stud with a hammer. 1x 14mm balljoint retaining bolt. Think that covers it.
You'll have something similar to the following picture, your rotors are probably different as I have done the Galant brake upgrade.
Rotor removed. You can leave yours bolted to the hub.
The hub should come out of the knuckle fairly easily. If not a socket and a few gentle taps from a hammer from behind should free it.
THIS IS THE BEARING SPACER. DO NOT LOSE, SWAP, OR DISCARD THIS. The spacer determines bearing preload, and is matched to the hub. Without it, or with the incorrect one, the bearings will self-destruct.
Moving on... I used a good flathead screwdriver to gently tap the old races out of the knuckle. If you use this method, keep the tip under control, don't score the bore.
All the way out, flip over and do the other side too.
Theres a couple ways to get this bearing off the hub, I decided to try a grinder. I ran out of grinding when so ended up using a propane torch to heat the race & a chisel to seperate it.
Cage removed.
Rocketman:
Here's the race. Bearing seperator would work best if you've got one. (I need to get one!)
Race on it's way off. Little tricky, don't damage the hub's shaft
Install the new seal on the hub - don't forget it!
Gently start the bearing onto the hub shaft
I found a section of pipe to use to seat the bearing. Gentle taps! Use a press if you have access to one.
Gently start the race into the knuckle.
Send it home, gently, don't score the bore
Install the race in the other side
Rocketman:
Pack the bearing, set into place. Install the axle seal, I used a flat piece of heavy aluminum to seat it.
Reinstall the bearing spacer - don't forget it!
At this point you can install the hub back into the knuckle. Pack the bearing...
Flip over
I had to gently tap the other bearing to get it to seat nice on the hub shaft
Just about seated all the way
Reinstall onto the car!
Use the axle nut to tighten it down the rest of the way. FSM recommends torquing 116-174 ft-lbs, I dont think it needs quite that much, torque to your heart's content
That should be it, I don't think I missed anything, hope this helps everyone
-Rocketman
Gostlrs:
nice write up
bhazard:
My machinist charged $30 to do both sides. I was short on cash but didnt feel like trashing my hubs...
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