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[Tim]

This is for anyone who has replaced struts and springs.  I bought the front and rear Tokico struts and front and rear H&R springs.  I have a spring compressor.  The manual (which I also have) just says "compress the spring" to install it on the strut.  I know this is basis stuff but I've never done it.  The strut was shipped with the piston held in a compressed position with a fairly beefy strap leading me to believe I don't want to just let off or cut it.  How do I get the spring on, though.

I'd appreciate a little guidance to get me on the right track from someone who has done this job.  I also plan to replace the strut mounts and strut boots while its all taken apart, too.  I would put new polyurthane bushings in but I can't find anyone who makes them.
Thanks in advance!

[Razzamatazzboca]

I think Anthony put tokico struts on.
I'm sure he will chime in with the right "how to"

[STE_6000]

I had tokico struts and ground-control coilovers. I had them professionally installed thought. I seem these parts put on before, but I dont have enough background to do the work on my own. I always recommend professional installs if your not sure. Performance springs and struts are just like stock ones except they have more tension due to there ability to handle more weight shifting then stock (OEM) parts. If you know how to put on stock parts, performance products are the same just with more care involved. I do repeat no one should do any work they are unsure of, seek professional help. Yes professional installs cost some money, but at times its well worth it, inorder to escape the health risks during or after the install is complete, and by after I mean accidental mishaps to to incorrect install.

[drbob]

Anthony. how much does a set up like that cost installed?

[STE_6000]

The shocks cost about 200 ofr the set original msrp is 400. probly 250-300 after shipping. Coilovers are 400 before shipping. Install may run 100 bucks locally. I cant say what I paid cause you will not get the same pricing.

[Richter12x2]

First thing, everyone and their grandma will tell you that this is too dangerous, you'll kill yourself or shoot your eye out, or launch the spring through the wall and kill your dog or something.  The way these springs are setup, you cannot hurt yourself doing this unless you are incredibly stupid.  So as with all my how-to's, incredibly stupid people should probably ignore this entry, or else we'll just chalk it up to natural selection.  As long as you take the center bolts of the strut out AFTER the spring is compressed, there is no risk of bodily injury save a few skinned knuckles, possibly.

You'll notice there aren't many people on this board who do their own work.  Here's how it goes - you can just cut the strap on the struts, it's no problem, that strap is just to keep them compressed so they fit in a smaller box without poking out the side.  When you cut the strap they'll slowly let themselves out to full length.  Spring seat goes toward the top, spring goes on top of it.  To get your existing strut off the car you should do this wheel off (obviously) and car on jackstands - then detach the top first, (under the hood on the strut tower, just the bolts around the outside, leave the big middle one alone for now) once it's loose from the top, take the bolt out of the bottom and take it off - then put one spring compressor on each side of the spring and compress the spring until there's no more pressure on the top of the strut(the part you took out of the strut tower) and once that's done, take out the center bolt, and the top will come off.  Then you'll want to gradually (aiming the old strut away from you) release the tension on the old spring so you can get the compressor off if you're changing springs, put the old or new spring on the new strut, screw your old top onto the new strut, and then decompress the spring.  Then screw the new strut into the car, and you can use the weight of the car to compress the strut into position.  Repeat for both or all 4 wheels as the case may be.  The back strut towers are in the trunk.  Have fun and aren't you glad you saved yourself $300 for something you can do yourself in 2 hours?

[Tim]

Thanks for the pointers.  Already have them on.  Work great.  I have a post out there somewhere with a report on how they ride, etc. Maybe it's on the general forum.
You gave a good tutorial, though, and I saved it to my Capri folder for future reference.
Happy Motoring!
Tim in StL

[STE_6000]

Most people dont do their own work because they arent mechanically inclinde. I for one get a lot of the work profesionally done. Nothing wrong in that, better to be safe then sorry. Now their has been some small stuff I have done on my own, but nothing extensive. To anyone else that doesnt know how to install or fix someone, that is not a problem, that is why professionals are around.

[Richter12x2]

Yeah, cars are a lot like computers - usually people are more handicapped by the fear that they're going to mess something up than by any lack of knowledge or skill.  I used to be like that - when I was in high school I couldn't care less about cars.  Then I had a car that rode too low to the ground (before I got it) and had a habit of shearing the plug off the oilpan.  First one cost me $400.  Second time it happened I borrowed a book from the library and did it myself for $40 - after that I was all about it.  The only thing I wouldn't recommend that just anyone do is autobody, that certainly takes a skill and attention to detail that puts it out of reach of the average person, whereas changing a radiator for example is just taking out 5 bolts, removing two hoses, and turning a thumbscrew.  Just use common sense and do it when the engine is cold and you can't really mess that up.  But Ford will charge you $300 in labor alone, and your local mechanic will charge you over $100 easy.

[PrinceChuck]

I'm going to have to agree with the do it yourselfer.  I hated helping my dad do things on the car when I was younger (TV was too important). But then again,  I do very little work to my daily driver(plugs, wires, brakes). So far on capris, I've changed out the radiator, solved a huge electrical problem, solved a tranny problem, changed my tranny filter, changed my gas tank, replaced one of the outside handles, replaced the valve cover gasket, replaced the harmonic balancer, and timed the darn thing. So....my theory is this,  if you only have 1 car to drive and you try and fix something yourself... something will break.  But if you ain't in a hurry to go anywhere, buy the book for $50 on ebay, there's a good troubleshooting section for every problem, and do it yourself, just don't jack up the front of the car without something behind the wheels.

[Richter12x2]

lol, that's the truth - I remember I almost lost a foot because I was working on the brakes one time, and I rocked it off the jack - the car landed on its brake rotor, on the tip of my shoe (right before my toe) - I very carefully jacked it back up, set the emergency brake and then went and had a beer.

[eric]

I almost hate to admit it, but I farm out a lot of the simple stuff. I have a local mechanic that will tighten my alternator belt for $15. He puts it up on a lift removes the tire, and tightens the darn thing. Then I am back on the road in 20 minutes with no cussing and scraped knuckles. I also don't do brakes, same mechanic, $25+parts. I got lucky with this guy. Amazingly, this is the first Capri that he has ever worked on and took it as a challenge to keep it running good. I get 32-35mpg, cruise at 75-80mph! Now if I can only get the top to stop dripping on me, kind of an Australian water torture...