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Author Topic: curiosity  (Read 3133 times)

rcicustoms

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« on: May 15, 2009, 06:54:00 PM »

Just out of curiosity, what kind of horsepower #s is everyone putting down? and if turbo what turbo are you running to achieve theese #s

ex...im running arround 190 on a vj-11/14 hybrid
at the moment...
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220hp@18psi

yen

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curiosity
« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2009, 09:10:00 PM »

32.5FWkW!!!
TASTE THE FURY!!!
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Rocketman

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« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2009, 05:35:00 AM »

I was running a VJ11-tbird hybrid on my B6T at around 17psi and maxxing out my fuel system, not sure what kind of numbers but Gus can tell you it really hauled. The Tbird compressor is rated at 384CFM

Since then the B6T has given up the ghost and Im swapping in a 1.8L and I'm going to use the same turbo, going to upgrade but I really need this thing ready to get to the MACG this year
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rcicustoms

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« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2009, 12:17:00 PM »

kinda like the mitsu 14b im putting on my car.
it flows 408 cfm at 15psi its efficientcy is arround 100% at 21psi and at 23 starts to heat the charge
were going for 220  but ill bet you were making all of 190 on a 11/tbird..
everything ive read, has said the b6 is a 250 hp motor with the stock rods more than that and they break...
now a bp on the other hand boy ive seen 300 hp bp motors or bpt at that point..

ive made a high compression b6t with everything b6t except the block i bought a brand new na capri shortblock for 325.00 and did it that way....
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Rocketman

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« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2009, 01:41:00 PM »

Yeah its pretty close to the Mitsu turbo. The rods are identical between the B6, B6T, and BP, unless you get GTX B6T rods or BPT GTR rods. BP is no stronger. The rods arent neccesarily the weak point, it seems the rod bolts are - the bolts let loose and throws the rod through the block. ARP makes rod / main cap bolts, I'd recommend them if you wanna push a lot of power on stock rods.

you've either got 9.0:1 or 9.4:1 CR pistons, watch your fuel and timing...
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rcicustoms

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« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2009, 08:53:00 PM »

ok im gonna be honest heres my setup....
9.4-1 n/a block stock brand new internals.
 (i bought a shortblock from a ford engine seller) mated a b6t head to it
(after cleaning, new valvestem seats,shaving 30 thousandths and light porting on the intake side) with a cometic gasket and arp head studs.
oh and 323gt camgears,
 im running a ported b6t intake, and a stock cast ported exhaust mani, a a vj14 hotside and center with a vj 11 coldside, (also ported and smoothed for efficiency using a brake hone just like the t.b.
i have a progressive hard pipe kit from the turbo my hard pipes incremently increase in size from 1.5 - 2.0 - 2.25 - intercooler - 2.5 from intercooler to t.b.
what this does is drop lag signifigantly .
coupled with 2 bov s an HKS ssqv in front of the t.b. and the stock recircing whatevers in the pipes before the intercooler back into the intake trac just before the turbo.

an msd coil for a mid 90s dodge neon.
taylor 8mm wires (red)
b6t vaccume and boost controlled distributor
a corksport tuned ecu with maps to 17psi and a 7500rpm rev limit..
the corksport downpipe
hallman manual boost controller
blox adjustable fuel pressure regulator(stock modified)
DSM 450cc injtrs.with a resistor box on my harness.. its slick..
walbro 255lph pump
G series tranny with a centerforce2 pp and an ACT clutch disc (this is an incredible setup ive never once slipped the clutch under power when i didnt want it to)
driveshaft shop axles
i run oil press.,water temp.,exhaust temp.,and boost. guages and i have an AEM uego wideband.

currently im running 18psi boost with 32psi fuel pressure and my afr stays 11.6 or so under load with stock b6t timing  
to check AFR i use 3rd gear and from 3500 to redline watching my guage usually. have done all gears. but 3rd is most conveient..
 
theese are the rods you spoke of earlier B6/BP.,BPT,BPD
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Rocketman

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« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2009, 04:58:00 AM »

where'd you get that pic? It looks like the first is an aftermarket rod, most Mazda rods are not that smooth? The second rod is a B6/B6T/B8/BP/BPT rod, and the third is a B6T GTX rod, real rough surface like always

Unless you've changed them, the middle one is what you've got.

Good resource if you've never been here: http://www.solomiata.com/Mx5Engine.html
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rcicustoms

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« Reply #7 on: May 17, 2009, 11:55:00 AM »

the first is a bpd rod second a miata or b6 rod and third is the rod from a jdm bpt i do believe its from a 323gtx website or miata forum but i cant remember witch... if you search a couple youll find this pic and its description.....
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rcicustoms

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« Reply #8 on: May 17, 2009, 12:08:00 PM »

and yes the one in the middle is what im running.(stock)
and why im afraid to push the 14b too high on them ive heard 250 is safe and ive heard it was more like 270-280 i dunno.. i dont want to pop this one
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Rocketman

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« Reply #9 on: May 17, 2009, 12:28:00 PM »

It depends on the engine, there was a guy pushing over 400 hp from a stock B6T block, and he ran at least 6 months before it let loose on him. He was testing how long a B6 bottom end would last. Turned out a crank bolt popped and the rod came loose.

I'd say 300whp is safe if you've got good rod bolts

Be really careful with the AFR's at power like that though, the ELproto isnt foolproof
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rcicustoms

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« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2009, 05:26:00 PM »

seriously, you think b6 internals will hold, if i stud the low end with arp hardware??
i thought the rods would give at arround 250whp..
hell yea, if i can make 300 with those rods im gonna.
 ive got plenty of fuel, and with the 14b ill have the available boost to theoretically make 300whp but i really dont want to toss a rod
in this motor. i think ive got about 600 miles on it so far, and thats why i aint put the 14b on the car yet...

ok question
..where im running a b6t computer, and head, and cams, and distributor,
 we used the conservative b6t timing when we built the motor back up .
 our thought was after the motor broke in, we would turn the timing back up to N/A specifications to gain some off boost power.
 i think theres like 3 or 4 degrees difference between the time for turbo (B6T) cars and N/A (B6) cars i think, dont quote me, cuase im at home. and not in the garage. but i think the b6t times to 12 deg BTDC  and the n/a times to 8 deg or something like that.. so, is there hidden power to be found in the timing? or should i stick with the b6t timing for safety???
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Gostlrs

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« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2009, 05:36:00 PM »

why are you going with the 14B instead of a 16G?

the small 16G spools just as fast as the 14B but can handle more power. i wanna put a 16G on mine so i am interested on how yours turns out. Did you already make the Manifold?
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rcicustoms

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« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2009, 05:58:00 PM »

this is the turbo and manifold.i took a 1/2 inch plate and cut a DSM flange. then i milled out ...i more or less cut the corners off on the mani to clear the bolts on the DSM flange then centered the two together
and welded it up inside and out with nickel rod (for welding to cast)
 this is what it looks like painted silver with the 14b hotside painted black...
all of the pics of the car and engine build are on my car domain page ..my user name there is also rcicustoms
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rcicustoms

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« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2009, 06:02:00 PM »

little size difference. thats my vj14/vj11hybrid next to it in all black
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rcicustoms

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« Reply #14 on: May 17, 2009, 06:06:00 PM »

oh and why did i go 14b.... the price was right i got it in trade for putting a 20g on the talon it came off...  
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