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[dougbay14]

car just died when driving.getting fuel but no spark new coil,dis cap,rotor,plugs,wires and distributor still no spark can any one help

[rcdraco]

You and me both.    

Check the fuel cut-off switch in the trunk.

[dougbay14]

tried that going nuts

[rcdraco]

Rocketman once suggested cleaning the grounds near the thermostat, near the O2 sensor connector.  It is cranking normally right?

[Rocketman]

Is your tach bouncing while you crank it? Its very unusual for you to get fuel but no spark

[cj cooley]

when you say new distributor does that mean recently? I had not one but two bad ignition modules, one in a "new" dizzy and one all by it self. I was pulling out my hair and then tried a module from a different store, then it started right up! turning over and no spark sounds like ignition module to me.hope it helps

[dougbay14]

yes motor is turning over normal.tack is not jumping up and down.distrib was new out of the box put on yesterday.

[cj cooley]

i know it seems far out but i had the parts guy actually tell me that these ignition modules are prone to manufacturing defects and he has had countless ones returned! also a local shop that had me run through the diagnostics told me that they have had problems with other cars modules as well. It made me mad because you would think when you pay between 150 and 200 that the part would work every time and i wasted a month in the summer without my capri due to a faulty part! they are primarily all made by mitzibishi so it must be a quality control problem. I had to argue alot to get them to stand behind their parts and take a return on electronics which they will swear they never do, so pick your supplier based on the return policy rather than price(and the cheaper part was the only one that worked). to get the part in stock i originally bought a whole new distributer and luckily they returned it since i treated it with kid gloves! the symptoms you described are exactly how my capri acted when it stalled. good luck and i hope your ride snaps back to life soon!  

[cj cooley]

also, when rocketman asked about your tach jumping or not also points to lack of signal from the distributer as well. either module or connections are bad so your coil won't be sending any spark to the plugs! did you replace the distributer because of this problem or just an upgrade? if the problem showed up after the switch, try swapping out module. check out the archive posts, you will see lots of examples and advice on this problem(I wish I was a member and had access to the info when i needed it!)

[Rocketman]

Exactly. If your tach is not jumping, the ECU is not getting tach, and that means you won't get fuel OR spark.

Either a bad ground, or a bad distributor module. You can find ignitor modules on ebay for cheap if you look around, its the same module as several other Mazda cars. Mitsubishi part # J207 or J208. both seem to work.

[rcdraco]

I was flipping through the TSB's and caught something about a bad main diode being damaged from charging, that related at all?

EDIT: I meant at rocketman, don't go ripping apart your car for that, when it's more then likely not your issue.  Sounds like the diode just messes up electronics, and would make the car keep running, rather then prevent it from running.  Check the grounds near the o2 sensor plug, and possibly replace the ignition module.  

Make sure the coil voltage matches what the manual calls for.

12v to the positive when key is at ON/Run position, 6v on the negative when key is at START/Cranking position.

[cj cooley]

i am not sure about the main diode but i will see what i can find. another thing i was thinking about was the fact that he said it was still getting gas but no spark. i thought the igniter module was in charge of the spark signal and the external cylinder position sensor controls the fuel injection signal. so he could still get fuel if the cps is still good but no spark if the ignition module is bad. tech capri web site does give you a excellent diagnostic flowchart that you can test your way through this system fairly easily with a multimeter or even a testlight. It was how i orignally figured out my problem.

[Rocketman]

While doing a harness transplant into an N/A for a turbo conversion, I damaged one of the diodes on the engine harness - pulled the wire out of it. The car would not get tach & did not start until I fixed it.

However, this was mechanical damage. In the dozen+ cases I've heard of no-start with no tach over the years, its almost always been the ignitor module in the distributor. I've never heard of the diode failing. (I won't rule it out though)

Doug, where are you located?

[rcdraco]

Speaking of that, are all 3 on the capri supposed to be grey's or is the main supposed to be different on the base/XR2.  I just tested the subs and they're good, got the main out and it's busted.  All 3 are 7321-9310 grey's.  And now the main is working fine, whatever.  Going to just say it's the dizzy and get another new one, I retested it and it's not showing any continuity in the pickup.

[dougbay14]

took distrib back got a new one same thing have 12 volts to coil 6 out. going to pic up a couple cheep control modules.i also cleaned the ground wires like said could it have something to do with computer