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Author Topic: converting n/a to xr2  (Read 10589 times)

ilarson007

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converting n/a to xr2
« on: December 10, 2007, 09:03:00 AM »

I am seriously considering swapping to a jdm b6t, if I can find one (Rob said he sells them for $700; of course this was a long time ago).  I know that basically everything from the crank to the hub is different (clutch, flywheel, transmission, etc.) and the outer parts are different (distributor, manifolds, etc.) so I am wondering what all is involved in this swap, and if I bought a complete jdm motor, what kind of work does this entail?  I can't figure out how to get my motor running (we have no idea), but as long as the motor ran when I got it here, I could bolt on all the new parts?  I know the computer is also different, but... still not sure.  So any suggestions and info is much appreciated.

1992xr2

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2007, 09:40:00 AM »

My first thought would be to just buy an xr2 they're cheap enough that you might end up ahead by swapping over all of your aftermarket goodies on to the XR2 then selling the stock n/a.  a good rule of thumb is to plan on $1000 more than you think it will cost when swapping an engine especially when it's turbocharged unless you've done the swap before.  but if you do decide to go through with it I think you might just want to swap in the whole xr2 front end, tranny, axles, crossmember then Megasquirt the whole shebang with Miata coils and rx-7 injectors then you'll have the ground work set for big power and not have to mess with splicing harnesses (much less wires with MS)
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Rocketman

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2007, 10:19:00 AM »

Just get an XR2 man.

Otherwise you'll need:

XR2 Engine
Fywheel, clutch
transmission
Axles & halfshaft
front hubs w/ bigger calipers
XR2 ECU
XR2 engine harness (different from the N/A)
XR2 VAF
XR2 distributor
XR2 knockbox (hard to find, usually doesnt come with engine)
XR2 intercooler & piping (jdm engine won't come with this)
Entire XR2 pedal assembly (cable vs hydro clutch)
Clutch Cable
Custom exhaust (xr2 & n/a are different, n/a is way smaller)
XR2 swaybars

So unless you find a good running wrecked XR2 I'd suggest saving up & finding a decent one somewhere.
 
 [ December 10, 2007, 04:42 PM: Message edited by: Rocketman ]
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CapriTypeR

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2007, 02:27:00 PM »

And I just happen to have a 50,000 mile 1991 XR2 for sale for $2250 obo!!!


---Russ
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ilarson007

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2007, 02:45:00 PM »

prob is i dont have 2250, i have about 250!! i was going to do this as a summer project, but do you think it could be done for 1500 or less? the reason I want the jdm engine is because it has more power than the usdm engine (like 150 compared to 132)  I doubt that you'll have the 50k capri left when I have 2250 to spend (unless you want to save it 'til summer  ;)   ;) , lol)... to make a usdm xr2 around 150-180hp how much would that cost?

and thanks for the quick responses, much helpful... that was really quick, i posted that this afternoon.  well, off to do homework.  I'll check back tomorrow.

CapriTypeR

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2007, 03:28:00 PM »

ZXTuner.com used to offer the JDM B6T for something like $650.
You may want to check it out!!
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ilarson007

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #6 on: December 10, 2007, 11:30:00 PM »

I've searched the whole website, and there's nothing about the b6t... anymore at least...

1992xr2

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2007, 08:49:00 AM »

Quote
Originally posted by ilarson007:
to make a usdm xr2 around 150-180hp how much would that cost?
I'd imagine you could be pushing more than 150 whp for $300??? Intake, test pipe, BOV, MBC and chipped @16 psi??

Oh yeah and if you swap, change out every gasket in the car if you drive half as hard as I do and don't like oil leaks especially if it wasn't driven hard in it's previous life.  In the 9 months I've had it I've popped to cam-disty seal, the crankshaft seal, the VC gasket, the oil pan gasket and a couple more I can't think of.
 
 [ December 11, 2007, 03:02 PM: Message edited by: 1992xr2 ]
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ilarson007

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2007, 09:08:00 AM »

what's a test pipe and MBC?

Rocketman

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2007, 12:33:00 PM »

I dont think the JDM engine is rated properly...I've seen the JDM computers....the fuel maps are identical. The compression ratio is the same...I'm pretty sure the cams are the same. Not to mention with the JDM engine you WILL be getting a B6T with a small-nose crank, which have the potential to have major issues.

The intake manifold will be the only thing thats different...I have one on my car. It didnt add the 15-20 hp that everyone rumored it to have. It killed my low end power but gave me some top end power.

For $250 - $300 you can make 150whp on a capri. Look at Grant's dyno #'s. All he has is a cone filter, a MBC (manual boost controller), aftermarket bypass valve, and a chipped ECU. Everything else is stock, and he's making 151whp. Theres a tremendous potential to make much much more power too.

A test pipe is a hollow section of pipe that replaces your catalytic converter. Its called a test pipe because its for off-road use or off-road testing purposes because its not emissions legal. People run them all the time because it removes the cat which chokes the engine.
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ilarson007

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #10 on: December 11, 2007, 02:52:00 PM »

Quote
Originally posted by Rocketman:
For $250 - $300 you can make 150whp on a capri. Look at Grant's dyno #'s. All he has is a cone filter, a MBC (manual boost controller), aftermarket bypass valve, and a chipped ECU. Everything else is stock, and he's making 151whp. Theres a tremendous potential to make much much more power too.
Now how much boost was that?  I'm not so sure I'd want to run 16psi, even for just a race (I know I wouldn't run it in a street setting, which is what the MBC is for...).  I might run 10-12, depending what stock is..
 
Quote
Originally posted by Rocketman:
A test pipe is a hollow section of pipe that replaces your catalytic converter.
As far as that goes, I'd run a legal exhaust to keep my parents happy, but after I move out it won't matter because Indiana has no inspections!!

Also, is it absolutely necessary to keep the car on for an extra minute or so with a turbo?

Rocketman

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #11 on: December 11, 2007, 03:33:00 PM »

Stock is 7-9 PSI. Once you drive it at 16 though, you wont want to change it back.

Trying to adjust a MBC is very tricky...once you dial them in you LEAVE them. If you want to run two levels of boost, either grab an electronic controller or a dual stage MBC.

16PSI is very controllable for street as long as you've got good tires and a good alignment. Most people choose to run 16 once everything is upgraded.

And no its not absolutely necessary to leave the car running. It would be advisable if you do some really hard driving before parking it. I dont leave it running unless I was just out hauling somewhere. If you're that concerned about it you could grab a cheap turbo timer and wire it in.

Some people will argue with that. But our turbos are water and oil cooled. Synthetic oil doesnt coke like dyno oil does, so thats an added level of protection.
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ilarson007

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #12 on: December 12, 2007, 08:09:00 AM »

So to change boost on the fly I'd need an electronic boost controller?  It sounds like that's what's needed.  When you run all the time At 16psi, what kind of gas mileage do you get (mix of light to hard driving, depending on my mood, lol)

1992xr2

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #13 on: December 13, 2007, 10:07:00 AM »

Test pipes aren't really noticable to parents. Mine haven't noticed yet.  Electronic boost controllers are definately the only way to go for two stage boost, I would look for one that has scramble boost so you can set your normal boost for, say 12 ppounds, then hit a button mounted on your steering wheel that will put you at 16 pounds as long as the button is down, or you could just beat through a layer of menus to change from high to low boost.  I don't know what your mileage would be at 16 pounds, but at 9 pounds I'm at pretty much the same mileage as I was stock.
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Rocketman

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converting n/a to xr2
« Reply #14 on: December 13, 2007, 01:03:00 PM »

Mileage will be the same if you drive normal, but if you constantly hammer on it you'll drop do to 25-22mpg
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