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Author Topic: Disaster  (Read 15132 times)

Gus Kelley

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Disaster
« Reply #15 on: May 26, 2008, 06:18:00 PM »

Hey Nascar! Save that turbo for only the housing. Look for a good used one in the pick-n-pull yards. Approx $30  Or wrecking yards $200. They are on our Capri, Mazda 323GT, and GTX. Thats your best route unless you're getting into performance. Then you can send your turbo off to someone like Dallas/Majestic Turbo and have them build a turbo. About $500-$600.  Good Luck! Gus
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Nascarfan08

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Disaster
« Reply #16 on: July 01, 2008, 12:29:00 PM »

From what I've been able to tell, I know the answer to this, but I had to ask anyway, because my mom really wants to know before we ship the turbo off to be rebuilt. Is there any kind of rebuild kit available? And, if there is, is this something a home mechanic would be able to do?

Thanks,
Scott
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1991 Silver Mercury Capri XR2 Turbo convertible

Gus Kelley

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« Reply #17 on: July 01, 2008, 09:06:00 PM »

Hey Nascar!  There are some parts available but it is high not recommended to mess with it. The vanes are very fragile and balancing the turbo vanes takes a highly specialized machine. Though expensive, there is a reason.  Good luck  Gus
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Nascarfan08

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Disaster
« Reply #18 on: July 08, 2008, 05:29:00 AM »

Rocketman, you suggested earlier that I clean out the charge air cooler, since it's probably coated in oil. According to the service manual, you have to remove the bumper assembly, which unfortunately is in a section of the manual not online. So... is there a way to remove it without removing the bumper? if not, what do I have to do to remove the bumper/how difficult is it?

Thanks,
Scott
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1991 Silver Mercury Capri XR2 Turbo convertible

Rocketman

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    • 91 BPT AWD Capri & 1991 XR2
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Disaster
« Reply #19 on: July 08, 2008, 10:48:00 AM »

Removing the bumper is really the only way to take the intercooler off.

Start off with the two bolts inside the wheel well on each side, they're 8mm IIRC, watch them because they secure into plastic clips on the back of the bumper cover. They often rust and seize and end up tearing out of the plastic. Count on having to use some assorted hardware to fix this when you are done.

Check under the front lip. Most of the bolts holding it to the frame will probably be torn off, but if there are any, remove them.

Remove your foglights if you'd like a little more room, they are one plug and two 13mm nuts under the bumper support.

On those same bumper supports you will have 3 nuts to remove on each side. Two are on the upper front  at the top, on each side of the support. One is on the rear on the otherside of the frame, on the outward facing side of the car. Hit all these nuts with WD40 first, it'll make your life a lot easier.

The one nut you will have big problems with. The passenger side inside nut on the front is blocked by the intercooler piping. You'll need to fiddle with the piping to try to get in there, and its going to be very tight. You'll see exactly what I mean when you get there. Unclamping all the intercooler hoses can help so they can be moved around somewhat freely.

Note once the bumper is off there may be some shims on the support bolts, try not to lose as you remove the bumper from the car. A slight outward tap once everything is free is enough to send the bumper to the ground, so be careful.

The intercooler itself is held on by two 10mm nuts bolted to rubber standoffs. WD40 these good, because if they are seized you can tear the rubber standoffs in half. The other side of the intercooler has two bosses that fit into the center header panel support, so once the two 10mm nuts are removed the intercooler will just slide out.

You might want to have an extra hand around while re-installing the bumper as it can be pretty frustrating to get back into place.

I think thats about it. Be careful of your front lenses with the bumper cover off, its very easy to lean onto them and crack them (done that too many times now)

Hope this helps.
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1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


Nascarfan08

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Disaster
« Reply #20 on: July 09, 2008, 06:19:00 AM »

Thank you so much! I should be all set because I just picked up a new bottle of WD40 today at Murray's. I honestly love the stuff. Haha.
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1991 Silver Mercury Capri XR2 Turbo convertible

Nascarfan08

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Disaster
« Reply #21 on: July 25, 2008, 12:09:00 PM »

Well, I pulled the air cooler, and WOW! I got a ton of oil out of there! I'm really glad I did that. And, while I had the bumper off I was able to mount my new fog lights.

Yesterday a big package came in the mail- a turbo from Mid County Mustang Capri! I've got it halfway in already! I finally feel like I'm making progress. Hopefully I'll have the car on the road in a few days.
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1991 Silver Mercury Capri XR2 Turbo convertible

Yuri

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« Reply #22 on: July 25, 2008, 02:43:00 PM »

i'm afraid to ask how much that turbo cost
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Xodus989

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Disaster
« Reply #23 on: July 26, 2008, 03:12:00 PM »

It's cost 599.99 for a rebuilt unit from there. I just looked in the catalog I got from them.
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Nascarfan08

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Disaster
« Reply #24 on: July 27, 2008, 11:10:00 AM »

I got it for less than list.
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1991 Silver Mercury Capri XR2 Turbo convertible

Gus Kelley

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« Reply #25 on: July 27, 2008, 08:03:00 PM »

Hey Nascar!  I also shuddered. Knowing their price and what the turbo builders charge. the known turbo builders get 400-450 for a fresh and complete build.  Gus.
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Nascarfan08

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Disaster
« Reply #26 on: July 30, 2008, 08:21:00 AM »

Okay guys, I got it in and it runs great! Now I'm on to a problem that existed before it went that still is there now. I had the check engine light on for a while before, and it's still on. I just shorted out the thing to get the code (I finally found out how), and it came back blinking once, which I assumed to be code 01. According to the list, that's either the IDM or the PIP Circuit. So... help? What are these?
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1991 Silver Mercury Capri XR2 Turbo convertible

bryanknight

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    • 91 foxboy modified, 91 capri xr2 modified,
Disaster
« Reply #27 on: July 30, 2008, 10:42:00 AM »

hey man how did u read your code i have been trying to find that out for awhile now also i have a check engine light on and can not find out how to put the pin in to see the blinking lights on the dash???????

bryanknight

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    • 91 foxboy modified, 91 capri xr2 modified,
Disaster
« Reply #28 on: July 30, 2008, 10:56:00 AM »

Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal fault
 ) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing -
IGNITION SIGNAL PROCESSING

The EDIS system uses a chip to process the 36 or 40 tooth crankshaft position signal from the CKP, this generates a low data-rate Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal for the PCM and provides control of the 4 or 6 terminal coil pack which fires a pair of spark plugs. One of the sparkplugs is on the compression stroke and the other the exhaust stroke.

CCM checks the ignition system by monitoring three ignition signals:

 The PIP signal generated by the CKP - the timing reference signal. PIP is a 50% duty cycle, square-wave signal with a rising edge at 10º BTDC.
 Camshaft IDentification (CID) signal derived from the CaMshaft Position sensor (CMP). This identifies #1 cylinder.
 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) a signal that indicates that the primary side of the ignition coil has fired. This signal is received as a digital pulse width signal from the EDIS chip. The EDIS chip determines if the current flow to the ignition coil reaches the required current (typically 3 to 4 Amps for DIS) within a specified time period, normally >200 microseconds.  

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/ccmonitor.htm

this page tell more sounds like something with the dis. or the coil to me lol i dont understand this.. but thats what it is lol

Heavensheros

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Disaster
« Reply #29 on: July 30, 2008, 01:13:00 PM »

hey nascar what part of michigan you from ?
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1992 Capri XR2
RocketMan VAF adaptor
Accel wires
Irundium IX
2.5\\" Thrush exauhst
Rocket Chip
Rims
H&R Lowering Springs
Tuner FX Racing seats
Gauges w/ A-pillar gauge pods
Accel superstock coil
FMIC
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