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[capri23]

i have a 1992 capri turbo with 97000 miles on it.i,d like to beef it up with some H.P. what else can i do besides installing this rocketchip?and where is the ecu in this car? i,ve already installed the cone filter.it does,nt feel any different,it was suggested i install an intercooler.can anyone lead me in the more H.P.dirction.i,m not a mechanic but i enjoy working my cars,and i enjoy reading this forum

[Gus Kelley]

Hey 23! Start with a full tune-up. Plug wires, plugs, dist cap, and rotor. Buy a boost controller and install it. 2nerfixx.com has a kit that is easy to install. 30 mins and $50 later, youcan controll your boost levels. Set your boost to 10lbs and you have a new street runner. The ECU is located in the shifter lever cover below the radio. Pull that out and send it to rocketman, he'll reprogram it. He gets into the computer chip and programs it to add fuel and more while car boosts above iolbs and above to 19lbs. If you go that high, make sure to always run premium gas and some octane booster in your tank. Also if boosting that high, install an AFR gauge. This allows you to monitor your air fuel ratio. Its important that your car runs in the 12 ratio area so as to not lean out and start melting pistons. Take that very seriously. I've melted down,and it's not very pretty. If you boost to 16lbs safely you won't recognize your cars feel. You'll be the leagues of mustang gts and wrx's. One more thing, If your capri starts to steer to one side violently ,then install a stut tower brace and have your car 4 wheel aligned. Good luck have a happy time keeping from smoking your tires through 2nd gear. Gus.

[Gus Kelley]

Hey 23! I forgot to add If boosting above 10lbs you should also add a BOV to your intake after the inter-cooler and also go to a muffler shop and have a 21/2 inch exhaust from turbo back to rear installed. That cost me here in sac 11/2 yrs ago $420.00 Gives you a cost area to deal with.  Gus

[1992xr2]

An intercooler is a good idea, Ebay (for once) seems to have decent intercoolers for cheap, there's a guy I know of with a 600+ whp Accord that uses an Ebay core.  Go and buy a bunch of 2 inch manderal (sp?) bends and have a party.  Look at www.werbatfik.com for good piping routing.  After that, I'd install a vj-11/t-bird turbo hybrid and an external wastegate if it's just a street machine but downsize to a straight vj-11 if you auto-x.  ADD A CATCHCAN blowing oil seals is no fun.  And don't forget clutch a good oem clutch will probably hold 16 psi on a stcok turbo but anything more than that is a bad idea.

[Rocketman]

Yes, a good tuneup is the best way to start off.

Then you can get/make:

A good intake
-good exhaust
-aftermarket blowoff or bypass valve (stock one doesnt like more boost)
-boost controller
-upgraded ecu
-front mount intercooler

Just cranking the boost to 16lbs will make an immense difference in acceleration.

If you need more, there are a few turbo options. For a relatively stock engine, the VJ14/VJ11 hybrid is a good choice. It flows 33% more air, and keeps a close to stock spoolup time. A full VJ11 can also be used, it will be a little laggier, but it flows more on the exhaust side giving more potential top-end power. A VJ11/Tbird turbo will flow up to 60% more above stock, when it kicks in it slams you in the seat.

There is a lightweight Fidanza flywheel available, it make the car more nimble in shifting and launching. Its 9lbs as opposed to the 32lb factory flywheel. There are a variety of clutches, SPEC, Centerforce, ACT, and other "performance" clutches. You'll want to toss a new clutch in there eventually.

A nice set of wheels and some fatter tires will also help out. Make sure your engine mounts and struts are up to snuff.

I think we should make a sticky, or I can make a performance page on my site outlining basic mods and parts for the XR2. Anyone agree?

[STE_6000]

rocket, your a moderator of the tech section. make up a page and make it a sticky in the xr-2 section.

[Rocketman]

Heh, I forgot aboot that. I'll see what I can do in the next couple days.

[1992xr2]

That would be awesome, we can have people contribute the research that they do in regards to different mods, the cheapest place to buy parts, etc. and the author of the thread can edit the original post after (most) everyone agrees that it's the best solution.
EDIT: oh, I also meant to add that I've spent dozens of hours researching the best way to do things and I'm sure others have done the same so if everything were condensed in one post it would save alot of research for most everyone.
EDIT x2: We could also make it a master list of how-to links for the different mods so that when you save up enough money for the next mod on the list you can look, find the best price for the item, order it from that particular company and have a pictorial how-to linked right next to the rest of the information.  And you should also include handling and braking mods, parts reviews and Rocket should post up his MS how-to with screen shots for all of his base maps...maybe?
EDIT x3: I just noticed that you are from chicago 23.  You should come up to Gurnee and cruise with me and type r this summer.

[capri23]

wow, i,m really excited with the response i,ve gotten for more H.P. i already replaced my spark plugs are there thicker wires or should i just buy oem distributor wires?i orderd my boost controller this morning i cant wait to install it.A good tune up,boost controller what should i do next,i want to do this right.intercooler? what is a catch can? where could i find a AFG gauge? i don,t want to melt my pistons

[1992xr2]

Catch can:
 
 
 
Essentially adding a catch can eliminates the Pcv valve, which is important because when you are boosting the PCV valve closes and the crankcase cannot ventilate, at best causing mild oil leaks and at worst causing massive blown seals and oil leakage everywhere like me.

Then, get a blow off valve, I really like HKS's sequential BOVs (the Super Sequential Blow-off Valve, the Racing valve and the gangsta old-school Sequential Blow-off Valve). Re-circ it for optimal performance but leave it atmospheric for best sound.  After this I would contact Rocketman and buy one of his ECUs, disconnect the overboost sensor, crank the boost to 16 psi, buy a downpipe back exhaust, add a front mount intercooler and change the clutch (clutchnet has great price and products even if their customer service sucks) if you get bored with that and haven't crashed into anything come back and we'll tell you what to buy next.

Note that this is completely ignoring suspension and brakes, if you do all of this on OEM brakes and suspension with all-season tires you will probably die. I'm at stock boost with the stock turbo on summer tires (during the summer) and I almost die on a semi-regularly basis.

If you keep the stock turbo I don't think that an AFR gauge is necessary as long as you don't use your boost controller until you have a new ecu(Gus, you killed yours cranking boost on the stcok ecu, didn't you?) but if you really do want one look at PLX, Innovate, tech edge, zeitronix, Horiba or Motec, listed in a rough order from cheapest to most expensive.  I'm getting a PLX and my dad runs Tech Edge. PLX should be fine for your app, just get one with a gauge or display.

Also, finish your tune-up before adding any more parts, this is fairly vital to not blowing up.  cap, rotor, fuel filter and an oil change.  For plug wires, good Motorcraft wires will probably be good enough for your app, I would recommend not using Autozone specials. If you're a baller go for 10mm magnacores, they're as bad-ass as plug wires can be.

[capri23]

thanks 1992xr2 for the suggestions. i looked all over ebay for a catch can for my capri i can,t seem to find one. where did you find yours? you suggested HKS,s BOV same question where do i find one? once i get the catch can,HKS,s BOV and the boost controller i,ll contact rocketman and buy one of his ECU is this trhe sequence you would suggest?

[Gus Kelley]

Hey XR2! On your catch can,I'm not sure you're doing right. But the big boys sometime run things your way,and others run tubes to their headers to extract the blow-by. On my melt down I'm not sure what went wrong. That happened in late august. Iws able to work my way to two 13.80 passes down the strip and then the next night I ran against a WRX and after smoking him literally at 125mph, I barely made it home. I've since put a brand new short block in. I drove the car around for a week to break it in and then changed turbos. My friend put some gas in her from a can that we laterfound to have water in it. She hasn't run correct since. I've changed O2 sensor, injectors, flushed the tank and changed dist,wires,and plugs. She still sputters and spits. I've run out of energy and the weather has been bad since xwas until last week. A long story and still haven't got to the point. Sound familiar, my comment on one your posts on 323. Anywaqy I still need to install an AFR gauge permanately. I do have an ECU that was programed by REICH and I have suspitions of problems there but can't say at this time. Gus

[1992xr2]

POST 100!!!!!!!!!1


Just get a universal catch can and adapt it, if you're ever going to do anything to your capri get used to adapting and fabricating no one makes many aftermarket parts for Capris.  I got mine from Pegasus racing fo cheap but it's really too small.  Search ebay for just catch can until you see one that has mf (black w/ white letters) on the top, its made by m factory and is good.  That sequence is ok you can install the boost controller when you get it just don't exceed 10 psi and don't unplug your overboost sensor until you ahve an ecu.  Search Ebay for HKS and you'll get 8 gabillion results just wade through them until you see a bov then look at it until you find the one you want.  Try to make sure you get a genuine one instead of a knock-off because knock-offs tend to be hit or miss.  Once you think you've found one post up the link to make sure it's genuine HKS and not some fag selling a knock-off.  Also you really should have some sort of aftermarket brake pads at that power level with decent tires.
Gus, I spent dozens of hours researching catch cans, crank ventilating, and PCV systems and this set-up will work just fine in terms of crank case ventilation, which is what I was worried about, but I'm sacrificing something in power for reliability and simplicity.  A better set-up is a combination of check valves and PCVs that utilizes intake manifold vacuum off-boost and vacuum from the pre-turbo intake or low pressure from the bernoulli effect in the headers on boost because for optimal performance you need 15 in/hg of vacuum in the crankcase.  I didn't really care about this and just wanted crankcase ventialtion on boost so I cheaped out.  Also when you hear really bad ass normally aspirated cars whine like their supercharged, it's because they have a crazy electronic vacuum pump that keeps vacuum at 15 in/hg at all times.  This is my favorite solution but costs $$$$$$.
What was your set-up at 13.80? That's either a crazy set-up or you're a badass driver. IDK why I thought you blew it up overboosting on the stock ecu, no offense meant.  Is it just the block that was replaced or the whole engine, if your on your same head that might be some of the problem, I've seen crazy shit happen when thing blow up (turbo seals in oil pans, valves in intake manifold blah blah blah) you could of screwed up the head when the bottom end blew.  If so replace it with a solid lifter miata head, innovate everything involved, then post it on here so we can take advantage of your hard work and blindly follow your lead, lol.

[Rocketman]

Miata never got a solid lifter head. There are aftermarket solid lifters available, and they are $$$$ Not worth it IMO, they may give you another 500rpm topend but the engine isnt designed to make power there, and you need to adjust and shim each valve manually.

PCV valves should work fine. Other than your case, I've never heard of a problem with it.

The JDM engines came with an oil catch can. There is a return built into our block and oilpan but its blocked off.

Some cars have a vacuum pump in them to maintain the brake booster. Older turbo Grand Prix's had a PM3 master cylinder because they though it would be better to have a electronic vacuum rather than a boosted engine supplying vacuum. Turns out the pump fails fairly often and most people just swap it to a normal master cylinder. Its way more complication than its worth.

 

Note that this is completely ignoring suspension and brakes, if you do all of this on OEM brakes and suspension with all-season tires you will probably die. I'm at stock boost with the stock turbo on summer tires (during the summer) and I almost die on a semi-regularly basis.

Can you drive? This isn't that much of a problem for anyone else.

[1992xr2]

I got bored and found stuff for you

BOV: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-HKS-SSQV-BLOW-OFF-VALVE-SILVIA-PULSAR-LANCER-WRX_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ023QQitemZ360019528026QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohost  ing
I can't be 100% sure this is legit from the pics but it has the adjuster
OR

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-BOV-SSQ-Super-Sequential-Blow-Off-Valve-MazdaSpeed_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ011QQitemZ320216639493QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
No adjuster definately genuine
OR

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-SSQV-Super-SQV-Blow-Off-Valve-BOV-71004-LW001_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ007QQitemZ170192018173QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
New style, no adjuster definately genuine  if I had to do it over again, this would be the one in my car
OR

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-SSQV-Blow-Off-Valve-BOV-Mazda-RX7-FD3S-13B-REW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ020QQitemZ300196351091QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Old-school SQV, this is what I ahve for my car, great seller but this one is ALOT quieter than an SSQV
OR

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-HKS-SSQV-BLOW-OFF-VALVE-SKYLINE-RB20DET-RB25DET-R32_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ023QQitemZ360021770439QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
I'm probably 90% sure this is legit and it has the adjuster

Here's some sound clips:
with insert
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bk-L5wkr8To
w/o
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyLUFRciFUQ

Heres the BOV adaptor you will need for a ssqv:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/19mm-3-4-Blow-off-adapter-Mazda-RX-7-FC3S-FD-SSQV-BOV_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ013QQitemZ230220366425QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Attach this to the BOV with bent-nose needle nose pliers then mount it on the factory re-circ valve hose upside down, in the exact same location, you even get to use the stock vacuum line, aren't you so lucky.

and catch can links:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-CATCH-TANK-CAN-C-CIVIC-INTEGRA-ACCORD-PRELUDE-RSX_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107063QQihZ022QQitemZ350022585728QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Put a cheap parts store breater on one of the nipples and use adaptors to attach the other end to the PCV nipple on the valve cover.  Cover the nipple on the intake manifold with a cap from the parts store, also, don't be afraid to take apart your pcv valve and use it as an adaptor.  I mounted mine where the windshield washer fluid goes after spending a couple hours soldering and routing the lines/wires to put the windshield washer bottle in the trunk.  I had it easy because there is nothing in my trunk:
   

and I have a bunch of engine bay pics here just FYI:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/22855253@N03/

I am going to bed now, have fun, spend lots of money and happy boosting.

EDIT: Rocketman, yes, I can drive lol.  I'm just inspired by turbo power to drive like an ass-hole in a town where no one ever speeds  so no expects me to be doing 3x the speed limit down a 35 mph road and just tend to pull out in front of me.  You would be perfectly OK with gobs of power on a stock susp/brakes set-up if you never drove it hard but why would you have gobs of power then?  If you modify your car so that you can drive like an ass-hole faster, you damn well better to stop faster.  few examples: Racing a z28, doing 80 in a 35 and a pizza delivery person pulls out right in front of me, I slow down fast enough so that I missed him by inches.  Testing MBC, trying to avoid the boost cut in fifth gear going a buck 20 and out come a tractor, nailing the brakes at 120 is scary as hell with stock ish. blah blah blah.  IMO the pwoer i have with my bolt-ons is already too much for the shoddy brake I have on there now let alone at twice as much boost.