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Author Topic: 92 xr2  (Read 5201 times)

koopck

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92 xr2
« on: July 18, 2008, 04:43:00 PM »

Has anyone had a headgasket blow on there 1.6 is there any thing besides the gaskets and doing a valve job
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Rocketman

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92 xr2
« Reply #1 on: July 18, 2008, 05:31:00 PM »

Can you give us a little background on what happened? They usually dont blow unless they've been severely overheated and the head is warped.

Depending on your mileage you don't 'need' a valvejob, but you *should* bring the head to a machine shop to be checked for flatness and machined true

A head gasket is very straightforward on these cars it can be done in a solid afternoon if you are somewhat familiar with the engine

Just make sure its the head gasket first before you jump into it
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koopck

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92 xr2
« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2008, 06:10:00 AM »

it got over heated from lack of coolant due to waterpump, it is going to need a valve job pour solvent in the intake and exaust and it pours right out of the valves i have to pressure test the head it might have a crack in one of the intake ports i will do that on monday
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Rocketman

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« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2008, 09:26:00 AM »

Well if you still have the camshafts installed then yes the solvent will pour out because some/most of the valves will be open all the time. The engine is  still in mid-cycle and just because its off doesnt mean all the valves are closed.

A valvejob just re-grinds the seats of the valves and helps generate a better seal.

You will need to have the head checked for flatness and definately planed, perhaps even replaced depending on how bad it is.
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Gus Kelley

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92 xr2
« Reply #4 on: July 19, 2008, 07:22:00 PM »

Hey Koop! Like Rocket says your testing style is not valid. There will always be a valve off it's seat when the cams are installed. Pull your head and take it to a competent machine shop. Have them check it for warp According to the book I believe it can't be more than .008in out of flat. If more, it will need to be replaced. If the head is servicable then have a valve job done also. These will be done after checking for cracks. Of the four engines I've had the heads off, none have been cracked. Check "Eristic gaskets" for a gasket set. Be very careful when removing the camshafts from the head. The cam bearings are part of the head and are not replaceable.  Good Luck!   Gus.
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koopck

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92 xr2
« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2008, 03:07:00 PM »

i pulled the head and tested it i know that you would not be able to do it with the cam still installed i pulled the valves and they are really gummed up also the deck was 10 thousands of an inch warped in the middle which i had decked today
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Gus Kelley

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« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2008, 06:50:00 PM »

Hey koop! Take it to a machine shop as I stated. They should have a book listing that head. As I stated earlier I believe the max is 8 thousands.  Good Luck Gus.
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Gus Kelley

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« Reply #7 on: July 22, 2008, 06:52:00 PM »

Hey Koop! I guess I didn't read your last entry thoroughly. Good luck !   Gus.
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CapriTypeR

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92 xr2
« Reply #8 on: July 22, 2008, 08:03:00 PM »

I guess it's time for me to chime in!!  Yeah, Koop, Good Luck!!  That must be one special Capri, with all that work you're putting in it!!    

--Russ
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koopck

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92 xr2
« Reply #9 on: July 23, 2008, 05:01:00 PM »

Yeah Russ real special a big old pain in my ass almost as bad as the owner if you know what i mean but hey i will work though it and this one is going to run about as good as the day she was made
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CapriTypeR

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« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2008, 07:48:00 AM »

Hey, Koop-
Here's a picture of your Capri at full speed (appx. 37 MPH) at the 2004 MACG - the last time the car saw regular street duty!!  I thought it would make you smile while you re-assembled the ultra-hot Capri you're working on now.  Maybe one day, your Capri will be as cool as the red one in your garage!

--R

 
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CapriTypeR

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« Reply #11 on: August 09, 2008, 01:10:00 PM »

All right guys - Koop and I need a little more help!!  For background, the car was overheated due to a bad water pump, and had a warped head.  Head was machined, and a valve job done. New plugs, and wires were also installed. The car is assembled, and WILL run.  However, it won't start on it's own, and more often than not, won't start at all. The car seems to NOT start after it is up to temp.  The check engine light is NOT flashing any codes, and all the guages read good. Car seems to act as if it is flooding.  If Koop goes out in the garage in the morning, the car starts right up. After it warms up - nothing!
Planned checks/activites tomorrow:
   TPS replaced
   Computer replaced
   Injector module replaced
   Barometric pressure sensor replaced

if none of the above work, I plan on liberally applying 5 gallons of gas and a match!!

I really want this car to attend the MACG, but we have less than a week to get it in shape.

Anything you guys can think of that we can look at, check, connect, disconnect?

---Russ
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CapriTypeR

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« Reply #12 on: August 10, 2008, 11:36:00 AM »

OK, he changed the TPS, Computer, & Barometric pressure sensor, with no effect. the MAF sensor was also changed.
Any ideas from anyone??  Please (trust me, you don't want me to beg-it ain't pretty!), anything?


---Russ
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Rocketman

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« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2008, 11:58:00 AM »

Have you thoroughly checked for vacuum leaks? What is the shape of the dizzy? Is the ignitor module fried?

Have you checked for fuel/spark when its warm?
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CapriTypeR

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« Reply #14 on: August 10, 2008, 02:20:00 PM »

I'm waiting for Koop to respond, but, Vacuum leaks-not sure if thats been checked yet. The dizzy is being replaced as I type this. It is pretty much our last-ditch effort. I have no clue as to what else it could be.  The car ran great before it overheated.  So whatever it is was caused by excessive heat, I assume!

--Russ
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